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  1. #31

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    Good for you! I'm looking forward to your pictrues.

  2. #32
    holmburgers's Avatar
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    Version 1.0 - UV Exposure Unit with CFL Black Lights

    Ok, here she is.

    It's not pretty and not completely done yet; still need to get 5 more bulbs and then make a curtain to go around the sides, but I suspect it should work well!

    As you can tell, the wiring is somewhat of a hazard. One ill placed set of fingers and ZAP, 120V right to the kisser. I need to figure out a way to hide the wiring.

    I've already got ideas for v2.0. Thinner MDF, or solid wood, lamp "cleats" that don't require any kind of drilling thru the board & also facilitate wiring on the front side, plus legs that angle outward.

    I found front-wiring sockets after the fact, realized that 3/4" MDF is too heavy and my hardware store only had straight leg-plates. They do make leg plates that will splay them out slightly, and I think that it would be better to avoid reflections from the legs and being a little closer to the contact frame might not be a bad idea either. But all told, the unit packs up into quite a small package.

    Anyways, gotta live with this one for awhile, unless someone wants to buy this one so I can get to work on the next one! Sorry for the slightly dark photos.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails standing.jpg   wiring.jpg   detail.jpg   underbelly.jpg   packedup.jpg  


  3. #33
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    For code and safety make sure the socket is wired correctly; The hot wire connected to the hot terminal or black and the neutral or white to the neutral terminal.

    That way the therminal end of the bulb, the soldered end tip is hot, black and the aluminum shell of the bulb is neutral or white.

    The reason is if someone should put their hand on the bulb and come into contact with the shell of the bulb they won't get shocked or killed.

    This is true if all house wiring too.

    Get an appliance electrical cord with the plug already attached at lowes or hd.

  4. #34
    holmburgers's Avatar
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    Thanks Curt, that's the kind of thing I would've never thought of.

    However I fear this particular unit will never be up to code... something to strive for in the next version.

  5. #35

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    That is some scary wiring there. 4 1 inch strips of MDF and another "table top" will hide the wires and keep wondering hands off. Never underestimate the stupidity of guests.
    Technological society has succeeded in multiplying the opportunities for pleasure, but it has great difficulty in generating joy. Pope Paul VI

    So, I think the "greats" were true to their visions, once their visions no longer sucked. Ralph Barker 12/2004

  6. #36
    holmburgers's Avatar
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    I agree mark, I really do. It'll never be plugged in unless I"m using it, and the toggle switch will provide one (tenuous) layer of protection.

    Luckily it's just me and the GF living in my apt., and she knows about the danger.

  7. #37

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    You, your girl friend, the romantic BL glow filling the room. That's what memories are made of.
    Technological society has succeeded in multiplying the opportunities for pleasure, but it has great difficulty in generating joy. Pope Paul VI

    So, I think the "greats" were true to their visions, once their visions no longer sucked. Ralph Barker 12/2004

  8. #38
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    holy shitburgers, that's extremely dangerous. This is why I was suggesting that doing it would be a bad idea and this is way worse than even I was expecting.
    - your wiring is completely exposed and on BOTH sides of the board!
    - your wire gauge is completely inadequate (it needs to be 1mm^2; that stuff is a fire hazard)
    - your wire is not multi-stranded (safety issue with it fracturing, fire/arcing hazard)
    - your input cord has no strain-relief (one trip will yank it out, leaving bare ends)
    - there is no ground (ungrounded systems are suitable ONLY when double-insulated, this isn't even insulated at all!)
    - half your wires go under the wrong sides of the screws (tightening the screw pushes the wire out)
    - you have the sockets on the wrong side of the board (those are face-mount ones) which is why the wiring is exposed

    You need to at least build a box over the back of that thing and move the switch to the other side of the box so that all the wiring is on the inside. And take the cord off it right now until the thing is completely enclosed. What you should really do:

    - move the sockets so they don't go through the board, only the wiring does
    - use stranded lamp cord for the wiring (like you have on your brown cord)
    - crimp and solder ring-lugs on each end of each wire, then screw the rings to the terminals
    - cover the wiring on the back with some plywood or masonite
    - mount the switch facing out
    - tie a figure-eight knot in the cord where it goes through its panel hole so that the mechanical load is not on the electrical connections.

    terrifying stuff.
    Last edited by polyglot; 01-26-2012 at 07:38 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  9. #39
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    Polyglot is rigtht, do not use as is.
    Items for sale or trade at www.Camera35.com

  10. #40

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    That wiring is scary thin.

    I'm with Polyglot and Fotch, I wouldn't remotely consider using that thing as it sits.

    Polyglot's suggestions are not "icing on the cake", but fundamental, like focusing before you release the shutter.
    Last edited by bdial; 01-27-2012 at 06:35 AM. Click to view previous post history.

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