If you are only using CFLs, I think your wiring is sufficient. Just don't turn it on and go out to the movies or something.
I do agree some sort of covering across the top to avoid the possibility of fingers getting in the wrong place would be an appropriate touch.
Yes, we would all hate to hear that APUG's "holmburgers" had been barbequed.
“Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”
Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2
You should consult with your electrician and ask him if the following would be ok. I can only state it is what I would do.
The 14g solid is fine and is used where it will not be moving, bending, etc. Black is used for the Hot wire, White should be used for neutral. The screw terminals have two colors. Silver and copper or gold color. The white (neutral) attaches to the silver screw terminals, the black (hot) attaches to the gold color. I can see from your pictures you didn't do this, however, easy enough to correct.
Since you didn't mount the lamp sockets to electrical boxes, less than $1 each, you should cover all the expose electrical terminals with something, tape?, sheet rubber?, or build the box that you talked about.
I would not use that switch, as it is now, no matter how carful you think you can be. Instead, at the hardware store, buy a line switch, which then is part of the cord. Make sure the hot wire is wired to the correct terminal of the plug, which is also color coded in the brass or gold tint, neutral to the silver.
Might also be safer to plug into a GFI outlet if you have one.
Remember, better Safe than Sorry.
1. Lamps should be wired in parallel to prevent voltage drop. The intensity of each lamp will be maintained.
2. Wire size is depended on load (current drawn in a circuit), #14 is rated 15 amps, #12 is rated 20 amps.
3. Wiring should not be exposed but should be in proper metal electrical boxes (4"squares,1900 boxes). The bond wire would then be terminated in the box itself (3 prong cord cap). Overcurrent Protection is provided already by the branch circuit wiring the receptacle you will be using is stalled in.
Hopes this helps
Some slight improvements
I've put a plexiglass covering over the open wires which should discourage quite effectively any accidental shockings. It keeps getting uglier, but, what can you do...
Also, I put some curtains on it (to make it prettier).
From my UV meter I'm getting a reading of about 0.2 mW/cm², though an inch or two lower and it reads 0.1 mW/cm². I'm hoping to make use of this meter and develop some means to accurately measure UV exposures (check it out)
Last edited by holmburgers; 01-31-2012 at 12:43 AM. Click to view previous post history.
Sponsored Ad. (Subscribers to APUG have the option to remove this ad.)