+1 for Ilford; our friends at Freestyle have a well-designed site as well. In terms of websites selling equipment, I would give a nod to KEH, Adorama and B&H. Easy to navigate and the search functions in each work well when one is just meandering through...
I have the funny feeling that most people are missing the word "designer" at the end of the title to this thread .
“Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”
Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2
I'm very interested in the answers to the actual question because I'd like to redesign my site as well, and while I've got the technical chops to implement it, I don't have the graphic design talent to do all the graphics pieces. It's kinda like porn - can't define it (good design) but I know it when I see it.
The problem with graphic designers is that they will usually design a website that shows off their skills when what you really need is a website that shows off your photographs. Those are two different things. Less expensive/experienced designers typically want to throw everything at it to show off their skills. I am not a designer, but I have designed websites in the past, some pretty nice ones too (breaks own arm on back) but not for a long time and I think it is about as exciting to do as watching paint dry (I've done that too so I know). I have been lucky to have been around some pretty good designers though over the years and things tend to rub off a little for one with an inquisitive mind.
If you are looking for a super straight website there are a few options out there that are pretty flexible. Indexibit is one. There are others that run off of Wordpress as well. Some companies have Flash based interfaces but all the websites done on them tend to look (except for colors and fonts) and function exactly the same. I personally think for the purposes of an art photographer who wants to reach the most people a simple HTML website is the best. My own website I think is a good example of a simple one even if it may be a little "vanilla", but the point of it is to show the images without distractions. It should work on any computer or device and fit on nearly any screen. I pared it down over the years to eliminate anything that anyone could find annoying, I think... It is just HTML with frames and tables, Google fonts, and mostly controlled by CSS. It is due for a major update as the newest image on it is 5 years old but I think the design still holds up fine due to the minimalism of it. Anyway, here it is, as simple as it can be-