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Thread: Mounting Tissue

  1. #11
    Carol's Avatar
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    Thanks for the advice Monophoto. The problem where I live is I just don't have access to supplies. I rang the main photo places in our Capital City and couldn't get any brand. One place used to carry some from Kodak, but they had to order such a large amount that they gave up buying it. Way to go Kodak! I will give it a go with the iron on a prac. print (I have plenty of those).

    Sorry Nige I didn't explain myself fully. Bienfang is not on the Vanbar website as they've just started getting it in. I don't know one from the other so it's pot luck whether it's any good. I also ordered some Tetenal ArtMus Mat paper which I know nothing about.

    Peter and Ron I think perhaps you are both right about the Bienfang really being Seal MT5. On checking my product list Bienfang sells for $25.30 which is exactly the price that Seal Mt5 used to be. So I guess that's what I'm really getting. I guess they didn't put the price up because it was already dear here.

  2. #12
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    Hi All.

    I just got a Seal dry mounting press, I think it's a model 150, but I don't know, there's absolutely no marking with model number on it. It's roughly 15" x 18", and looks similiar to the one in the picture below (I took this pic from an ebay listing, mine is similar, but doesn't have the switch, the power cord comes right out of the center where the heat control is). Anyone have any idea what model it really is? And how old it might be?

    Along with the press I got 2 partial boxes of 16x20 dry mounting tissue, one is MT5, and the other is Fotoflat which it says is removable. Is one easier to use than the other? Does dry mounting tissue go bad?

    I've never mounted a print before, does anyone have any pointers to a good (preferably online) tutorial on the subject? Thanks!

    -Mike
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails ac_1_b.JPG.jpg  

  3. #13

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    mounting

    Mike-mounting is not difficult at all. You need an iron to lightly touch the mounting paper to the mat.
    1. Place the tissue on the back of the print
    2. From the center out make four lines going to each side of the print -gently press the iron doing these lines. This will give you the intial contact with the print.
    3. Trim the print; preferably in a rototrim type cutter. You now have a print that is
    trimmed to the proper size with the mounting paper attached
    4. I have a jig that I bought from Zone-VI to do the attaching of the print to the mat. You could make one very easily. It is essentially a wood board that has
    a raised strip attached to the lower part of the board. From the center out it has ruler markings. You place your matboard in the middle and line it up so it matches the same ruler markings on each side. There is a seperate piece that is a T-type bar. Now place the print where you want it to be on the matboard and lay the T-bar across the lower part of the print to make sure it is level
    5.While holding the print firmly against the board lightly touch the 4 corners of the tissue to the board wit the iron
    6. You should pick up a sable brush to gently brush away debris and dust after and before each operation.
    7. Now the package is ready for the drymount press
    8. And this is where I wish I had a digital camera to put up some pix for you because it isn't hard at all. Pm me if you need more info
    Best, Peter

  4. #14
    ann
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    some time ago, a young man posted a video that he had made dry mounting with an iron, i thought i had booked marked it for just this type of occasion; but can't seem to find it right now. Hopefully, someone else has done the same thing but can put their "mouse" right on the bookmark.

  5. #15
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    http://blog.depressing.org/archives/000024.html

    I think this is the link that Ann is referring to. It is Christopher Colley's demo. I found it very useful.

  6. #16
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    I use Bienfang Color Mount. My time in my mounting press is 3-minutes at 220 degree F. I went to these settings to insure that the print adheres well. To test, after the weighted print is cooled for about 1/2-minute, I take the mounting board a give a quick sharp bend with the print on the outside away from the bend to see if it holds.
    [FONT=Times New Roman]MAC[/FONT]

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by noseoil
    How hot do you run the color mount? My first attempt at this process was with the setting I use for for fiber base paper and tissue (old Kodak shellac). Needless to say, the lamination was "complete" and permanent. What a mess. Glad it was "only" an 11 x 14 print, oy. tim

    P.S. Only thing worse looking was the time I tried to dry an RC B&W print in the microwave for 30 seconds.
    I'v been useing Seal coler mount tissue for years, AA started useing it because it needed less heat and it was archivel In my press, whitch is a sael I mount my prints at around 185 degrees for 3 min. works every time.

  8. #18

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    For mounting Fiber prints in a heat press, I exclusivly use Bienfang (same as Seal) Fusion 4000. If you have the option, I highly reccomend it. You can get nice and clean Salon mounted edges easily with Fusion 4000.

    Good Luck

    Shane Knight

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeS
    Hi All.

    I just got a Seal dry mounting press .. Anyone have any idea what model it really is? And how old it might be? -Mike
    It appears to be a "Seal Commercial 200 Drymounting and Laminating Press". I bought mine USED 25-years ago.
    [FONT=Times New Roman]MAC[/FONT]

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by peters
    Dry-mounting is not difficult at all. ...
    Try Barnbaum's The Art of Photography, pp. 142 -144.
    [FONT=Times New Roman]MAC[/FONT]

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