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  1. #21
    Jim Jones's Avatar
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    I trim the white border away, dry mount, sign inconspicuously with graphite pencil beneath the lower right of the print, and mat to expose the signature. Framed photos have the title and my address on a label on the foam-core backing. Mounted and matted, but unframed, photos include the label to be used as the buyer choses.

  2. #22

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    Thanks for all the responses.

    I print borderless and dry mount my prints. I generally over mat (covering the edges of the print), but I kind of like the looks of a floating mat (having some of the mount board showing). The thing with the floating mat is that I've never seen it done with large prints (I have mostly 20x24's and a few 11x14's) I think the 11x14's would look good with floating mats, but I'm not sure about the 20x24's. Anybody use floating mats with prints as large as 20x24? Is it fairly common?

  3. #23
    Vaughn's Avatar
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    A little smaller than 20x24...

    Quote Originally Posted by max_ebb View Post
    The thing with the floating mat is that I've never seen it done with large prints (I have mostly 20x24's and a few 11x14's) I think the 11x14's would look good with floating mats, but I'm not sure about the 20x24's. Anybody use floating mats with prints as large as 20x24? Is it fairly common?
    I mount my 16x20 silver gelatin prints that way (floating) on 24x28 mats...I have a half inch of the back mat showing on the top and sides and 3/4 inch of the back mat showing on the bottom. I sign just below the lower right corner of the photo, on the front of the back mat.

    I think it is a very clean presentation (cool or neutral tone photopaper, 4-ply bright white mat, silver frame..Nielson profile #11).

  4. #24
    Jim Noel's Avatar
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    A huge percentage of the prints I sell are hand coated. All printing and exposure information is in pencil along the bottom edge. This includes the date, negative number, process, coating information, exposure time and UV source, developer and toner, if any. This info is put there as I make the print as a way to assist the printing of additional copies.

    When a print sells, I sign it in pencil to the far right bottom. Often the buyer will request I sign the mat also, which I do also in pencil at the lower right corner of the image.

    I don't believe in numbering prints although I do keep a record of the number of copies I sell of a particular image. My belief is that edition numbering is just a way to make more money off later buyers.
    [FONT=Comic Sans MS]Films NOT Dead - Just getting fixed![/FONT]

  5. #25
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    The Polish painter (also a photographer, novelist, dramatist, and essayist), S. I. Witkiewicz used to write the combination of drugs he was using on each of his portraits along with his signature.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

  6. #26

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    Signing the mat is something that is done to make a sale and not to benefit either the print or the buyer. I'm a picture framer and I suppose I have a little chip about this. For one, if you really have to sign the mat than please sign the back of the print too. If the mat gets water damaged or if the client wants an actually archival mat as opposed to what ends up on a lot of prints, or if they want to change the mat margins to better suit a specific frame or instalation scheme, then at least they have the option. If the mat, and only the mat is signed, then your stuck. Plus I just think it's a little tacky anyway ( sorry I do!).

    Personally I don't like to blemish the image with my signature, so I usually sign the back, reverse side of the margin not behind the image. I like 8ply mats and they almost always look best right up to the image anyways, so I usually sign the back.

    A really classy option, as people really do like to see the signature, is to print with wide margins. Sign below the image, and cut your mat window to reveal the signature and a little less on the sides and top. This usually looks best with a 4ply. Problem solved.

    If you want to get really slick, hinge (book) the backing to the mat at the top edge, preferably with linen tape. Then get those little archival plastic corner pockets that stick to the backing and secure the print. No adhesive and totally secure yet 100% reversable. Someday a picture framer will thank you, as will the client if they ever resell the loose print or reframe it. It won't have tape residue on the back and won't be mounted to anything.

    If this sounds tedious or over the top just remember back to all that time you spent hand agitating your fiber prints in the wash and all the selenium fumes you inhaled to secure the future of your work.

  7. #27
    jstraw's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MMfoto View Post
    A really classy option, as people really do like to see the signature, is to print with wide margins. Sign below the image, and cut your mat window to reveal the signature and a little less on the sides and top. This usually looks best with a 4ply. Problem solved.

    If you want to get really slick, hinge (book) the backing to the mat at the top edge, preferably with linen tape. Then get those little archival plastic corner pockets that stick to the backing and secure the print. No adhesive and totally secure yet 100% reversable. Someday a picture framer will thank you, as will the client if they ever resell the loose print or reframe it. It won't have tape residue on the back and won't be mounted to anything.
    These two paragraphs describe exactly, the plan that I have formulated.

  8. #28

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    I've noticed tons of photo galleries in the New York City area that are showing famous photographs that have been mounted to a clear 1/8 plexi and framed to show the signature. It's a nifty little idea that shows the quality of paper you chose and your John Hancock - which can be an important factor for serious collectors.

    Laminall does a great job with plexi back mounts and their sales team always offers tons of great options for custom mounting and framing.

    L2mounting.com
    718-947-3426

  9. #29
    Maris's Avatar
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    I sign in the lower right white border, title in the lower left white border, and place the photographer's stamp on the back. Also on the back I write all the relevant technical data plus the outline narrative; who, where, what, when, and why.

    When I am long gone I want to give the next owner a reason to preserve that photograph. Just because it looks real nice (I think, hope) may not be enough to save it.
    Photography, the word itself, invented and defined by its author Sir John.F.W.Herschel, 14 March 1839 at the Royal Society, Somerset House, London. Quote "...Photography or the application of the Chemical rays of light to the purpose of pictorial representation,..". unquote.

  10. #30
    Jesper's Avatar
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    I have a stamp with name and contact info that I use on the back along with a signature in pencil.
    Nothing on the front.

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