No contact sheets - 120/220 film. Negative sleeves, dated, labled with description of content, organized by dividers in a three-ring binder by content or project. As I shoot some images for clients (projects) These are kept separate from my 'art shots' which I organize by content and date.
Nothing fancy, but it works for me.
Maybe just year and roll number, the other option is to pick a date, for example date loaded, date unloaded, date processed. Probably the date unloaded or date processed makes the most sense. The date loaded requires that you track the date somewhere, if your shooting it all in one day, the load date and unload date will be the same, and if your shooting it over a month or more then the load date doesn't really matter.
Originally Posted by Sirius Glass
Another option is to keep a constables note pad, with a page for each camera/back, then keep notes on your images. I tried this once, in the heat of shooting though, it's easy to forget to take your notes.
What the heck is G.A.S.?
See my Blog at http://clickandspin.blogspot.com
The greatest advance in photography in the last 100 years is not digital, it's odourless stop bath....
Gear Acquisition Syndrome
Originally Posted by wogster
Color or black and white, 35mm, 120, 4x5 - whatever.
1. I use PrintFile archiving, so I can make notes on each set of negatives.
2. I record in Chronological order, for instance: 2007-04_001-05 means:
Print File# 001
If you shoot more than 999 rolls of film per month, you can use four digits for the third part of the nomenclature. If you shoot less than 100, you can use two. But who knows what number films you might be shooting in the future.
So, I scan all of these and keep those as proofs, labeled according to above nomenclature.
Then I keep an Excel spread sheet with developing information for all of those rolls. E6 and C41 too.
There's a lot to be gained from a system like this.
I keep the negatives in folders that contain all of the negatives, contact sheets (if any) and print records year for year, but I'm going to start employing a vertical drawer system with hanging files.
Originally Posted by ted_smith
"Make good art!"
- Neil Gaiman
"...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera".
- Yousuf Karsh
"We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, is not an act, but a habit".
Every LF negative is dated and sequenced in the format YYMMDD-nn so the first sheet from today will be 090110-01. For roll film I use the same code except that I add the frame number on the end so the second frame on the third roll I exposed yesterday would be 090109-03-02. The sequence is unique across all formats used in a day so it's not necessarily in order (although I like it to be). The advantages to me are that it's simple (so I can understand it), it supports any film/camera/lens/etc that I happen to pick up, and it also allows records/scans to be sorted easily on my computer.
Sponsored Ad. (Subscribers to APUG have the option to remove this ad.)
I can often use many films in a day, in at least two cameras, so I number each roll as it goes in with year, month, day, hour and minute, i.e. yymmddhhmm. Frames are then numbered as they are on the film. So frame 24 on the film I would put in right now would be 0901101745/24. I've been using this system for years, sometimes estimating the time later as I'm loading film so fast.
It's also useful to be able to look back and see where you were when you loaded the film.
I just label the roll with the date of when I finished the film.
Originally Posted by Sirius Glass
Same here, more or less. I usually can finish a given roll within a few days or a week, and I try to batch process like films (eg C-41, B&W films of same dev time). Whichever roll had the earliest start date gets the lowest roll number, as best as I can remember.
Originally Posted by Tim Gray
I try to keep track of dates I use a roll, when one stretches over several days. I've got most of my film backs/bodies labeled with an erasable writing sticker I can mark on.