Which mat board is suitable for black and white prints? Buffered or Non-Buffered?
buffered is for black and white
non buffered for color, dye transfers, cloth.
Buffered is the mat board recommended for black and white prints. Non buffered is used with dye transfers, color images, and albumen.
Originally Posted by Ka
Ann beat me to it.
That Ann is sooo pushy. All the right answers, all the time. Somebody needs to give her a smack.
Originally Posted by blansky
She is just a veritable fountain of knowledge. I'll bet that her library is larger then my humble shack. Probably nothing compared to yours though. With all of those obscure eastern texts.
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Even the simplest of answers, to the simplest of questions send me into hysterical laughter and smile wrinkles on my face. You make me so happy!!
I'll be ordering the BUFFERED then. Thanks.
What happens if I use bufferd for color or non-buffered for B&W?
I have read contrary information in a book titled 'framing photography'. It recommends Unbuffered for almost all photographs where the mountboard touches the emulsion surface. Where there is no contact ie oversized overmat to leave space for signature a la Ansel A, it states either will do. Would the use of acid fixer/hypo clear have an effect as presumably the use of hypo clear results in an alkaline final print and no use of hypo clear after acid fix - an acidic print? Help. I just wanna be sure, we all wanna be sure.
the school of thought on this has changed a bit over the years....used to be buffered for most b&w, and unbuffered for color and certain older types of prints like cyanotypes. now, I've heard recommendations from conservators that it's okay to use buffered for color materials as well. OTOH--a conservator that worked with us (I work in a museum) once told me to use unbuffered for everything to be safe. This was a number of years ago though, and like I said times have changed. If you follow conservation listgroups and the like--you'll see a never ending discussion about paper issues.
fwiw--the best of the best as far these enclosures and boards goes--are the ones with zeolites that will trap pollutants from both the materials offgassing and the display/storage environment. for boards, look at a product like Artcare. The counterpart of this used in museums and archives is the material called Microchamber. Made & marketed by Conservation Resources Int'l--comes in several different forms as well. Including products with mylar barriers sandwiched in between layers of paper.
If you're interested in this kind of thing--check out the Conservation OnLine site--probably look under the section for the general public, but there are listgroups on here like the Consdistlist or the Abbey Journal, that would be worth looking at.
I also suggest the Image Permanence Institute--read about the PAT test, andf check out their scrapbooking section for more info on consumer products.
Lastly--if you get a copy of CRI's catalog--there's a wealth of information explaining microchamber papers and just general storage. Gaylord Bros, Light Impressions, University Products and others have good tech leaflets as well.
Hope this helps--
p.s. I use buffered, acid & lignin free for b&w. unbuffered/acid & lignin free for color. mylar D for sleeves. don't forget your gloves--say no to fingerprints! and don't forget to keep the room cool & dry year-round.
Opinions expressed in this message may not represent the policy of my agency.
Has anyone experience with degradation of a color print mounted on buffered material?
I ask as a chemist, because when I consider the effect of chalk (calcium carbonate, the buffering agent in buffered materials), I have a hard time imagining it would do much damage to photo dyes. The carbonate would become bicarbonate very quickly upon acidification, and bicarbonate is very mild. In some cases the board is buffered with bicarbonate or a carbonate/bicarbonate mix. The original carbonate would have a pH of 10 or so, and bicarbonate would be near 7. I can see the carbonate possible changing a dye molecule in direct contact, but not after passage of the alkalike agent through the gelatin.
So what I need is a test, but I haven't done photogrpahy long enough to see any fading of my own prints.
Does anyone else have faded prints, and can the fading be correlated to bufferd v. nonbuffered boards?
Frankly, I don't believe a thing the pamphlets from the board makers say. The BS in those is worse than any claim by a nutritional supplement manufacturer.