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when I print small enough to mount my prints to 8x10 boards I will use 2 ply and then overmat with 4 ply
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Searching my way to perplexion
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Attachment Methods
 Originally Posted by Travis Nunn
when I print small enough to mount my prints to 8x10
boards I will use 2 ply and then overmat with 4 ply
I was thinking 2 ply mount and window mats might do
well up to 8x10. What methods of window mat-mount mat
attachments are suitable? Hinges? One post mentioned
corners. I've some mat board to order and will likely
include some 4 ply. Dan
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I dry mount prints for framing or my portfolio on 2 ply, and float matt with matching 4 ply board. I cannot see a reason to use 4 ply mount board when framing, and 2 ply takes up less space in a portfolio case. So 50% of my board is 2 ply and 50% 4 ply.
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hinging
I fasten my mat to the backer board with filmoplast sh linen tape.
Tim
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I use a piece of linen tape to hinge the mat boards together.
I'm one of those that doesn't like to drymount prints. I prefer mylar corners. Especially for prints that small, they work really well. Although, I have done the T-Hinge mount with linen tape and that works perfectly fine, too.
 Originally Posted by dancqu
I was thinking 2 ply mount and window mats might do
well up to 8x10. What methods of window mat-mount mat
attachments are suitable? Hinges? One post mentioned
corners. I've some mat board to order and will likely
include some 4 ply. Dan
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Searching my way to perplexion
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This is my method too. Mostly photo corners, but sometimes I use t-hinges too.
The person that mounts and displays photographs at the Minneapolis Institute of Arts once told me these words: "Use linen tape to t-hinge, or archival photo corners to mount your prints. But, whatever you do, don't ever dry mount them".
I always took that advice at face value, and added the reasoning that you can't ever re-mount the print if you have to. And that is something you will want to do, when the buffer in your mounting board has been eradicated by the acids and pollutants in the atmosphere. It will, at that point, no longer protect your print.
And, if something happens to the mount board, which is there to protect the back of the print, you're stuck again by not being able to replace it.
But I digress. Many people dry mount, and 2ply works fine for that. If your prints are very large, you may wish to consider a stiffer material, such as 4ply.
- Thomas
 Originally Posted by Travis Nunn
I use a piece of linen tape to hinge the mat boards together.
I'm one of those that doesn't like to drymount prints. I prefer mylar corners. Especially for prints that small, they work really well. Although, I have done the T-Hinge mount with linen tape and that works perfectly fine, too.
"...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera".
- Yousuf Karsh
"We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, is not an act, but a habit".
- Aristotle
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I've been T-hinging prints and adding photo corners to the bottom two corners, with an overmat.
Linen tape for the hinges as well as hinging the two mat pieces together.
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If Framed?
 Originally Posted by climbabout
I fasten my mat to the backer board with filmoplast
sh linen tape. Tim
I must have missed a stop. Why would one fasten
by any means the window mat to the mount?
Framing should hold all together. Dan
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Dan, this is the way I was taught. It holds the two pieces together and prevents them from misaligning and putting your well-cut mat out of whack. It also helps out if prints aren't framed and displayed matted in a portfolio box or in a prints rack at a show.
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When showing prints from a portfolio box, it looks better when the mat is aligned with the print.
Tim
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