Although he got his print mounted, there are a number of things he did that I would not recommend. We have been requested to do a mounting video. This may be just the impetus we need to show everyone the easiest, simplest way to mount and overmat prints, whether dry mounting, or using photo corners.
Although he got his print mounted, there are a number of things he did that I would not recommend. We have been requested to do a mounting video. This may be just the impetus we need to show everyone the easiest, simplest way to mount and overmat prints, whether dry mounting, or using photo corners.
Michael A. Smith
Lodima Archival Materials
A new high in constructive criticism. Tell him he did something wrong, but not what, or how to improve.
Being fairly new to dry mounting I learned at least a couple of things from this video. I like how you use a carpenter's square to place the photograph before tacking. Thank you!
Axel
Last edited by alroldan12; 01-26-2011 at 12:16 PM. Click to view previous post history.
There are only two things I do differently: I don't drag the tacking iron across the back of the print in order to prevent the tissue from wrinkling, and I don't mount the print then hope that I cut the window in the exact right spot. Instead, I let the tacking iron sit still in one place to attach the tissue, and I first cut the overmat, then center the print within it before attaching. I also have a Logan 750 and love it. The Fletcher 2100 is great if you can afford it.
1. When tacking the tissue to the print, as Greg Davis wrote above, tack only one spot in the center. Do not drag the tacking iron across the print--and certainly not in an "x."
2. When tacking the trimmed print and tissue to the mount board, tack two adjacent corners ONLY. If you tack all four and the print is not PERFECTLY taut, you will get a wrinkled print.
3. As Greg also wrote: Cut your overmat first. Then position the print in the overmat. No straight edge needed. No measuring needed.
4. When lining up the overmat with the mount board, make sure the top is aligned--not opposite corners, not the bottom. usually one hinges the overmat to the mount board, and since you will be hinging them together at the top, it is crucial that the tops are aligned.
There are probably a few other things, too, but these are the ones that come readily to mind.
Very nice video but I have to agree about not tacking with an X. I am not a dry mounting expert but I just attended a mounting class at the West Coast Art & Frame convention taught by Chris A. Pacschke. She is the leading expert on mounting for the picture framing industry and has been consulted by various paper and mounting equipment manufacturers and served on preservation boards with people like Wilhelm of Wilhelm Imaging Research.
She is the author of the book “The Mounting and Laminating Handbook” which I highly recommend. It is considered to be a mounting bible for professional custom picture framers.
This is a quote from her book, page 87 of the 3rd edition: “Tacking must be done in one spot only, along the end or side of the item to be mounted. Do not tack along an entire edge, at all four corners, in opposite corners or in the center. This could inhibit the paper expansion/contraction when adjusting to temperature and humidity changes while being mounted and create permanent wrinkles or creases in the mounting”
She has a great website with lots of articles she has written for framing magazines: http://www.designsinkpublishing.com/
Click “Library” button in the lower left side to go to her archive of articles.
Adv Reply
Originally Posted by Michael A. Smith
