Well Sean, as a graduate of the Lee Charmichael school of matt cutting all I can add is keep a lot of fresh blades around, keep a good backing material (think Lee gave a scrap of 8 ply board to use), and a comfortable place to work - THIS IS IMPORTANT. Once I found the right place to work, and how to mark the board, it started going really fast. Never hated cutting a matt, but now don't mind doing the work at all.
Good luck - oh yeah!! You are required to mess up several sheets to begin with - I think it helps break in the cutter.
Les McLean has an article in Sept issue of B&W Photography magazine on mat cutting. Though article is primarily directed to one brand of mat cutters, still a useful read. He mentions using a shell/bone (don't have mag with me) to clean up the edge.
van Huyck Photo
"Progress is only a direction, and it's often the wrong direction"
I have the lesser Logan, too, and the thing I would add to "change blades often" is be sure your measuring tools are square. I bought a nice T-square at the art supply store and all my mats came out wrong. Turns out the square isn't. I bought a metal square at the hardware store and haven't had a problem since.
I use a Dexter hand cutter I picked up on ebay for $5 and a heavy corked back ruler I found on Light Impressions. After a few failures I am making perfect mats. I majored in advertising design in college (way before photoshop days) so I am used to measuring and trying to be exact. The old adage measure twice and cut once applies. I also find if I lose concentration I screw up
As others have said changing blades often is important. I get two 11X14 mats cut (8 cuts total) from each blade. Just to see I've tried a third mat from the same blade and by the last cut the edge was not clean.
Well, Sean, I think you probably know to keep plenty of blades around ! haha
I have the 750 as well, and I love mine! That video is very well done, but it also shows how to use all the other mat cutters (one video fits all) so you'll have to either sit through or fast forward through things to get to yours...if you've never done this before, you might want to 'cut along'!
I think the machine is sent with a backer board, straight cutter and bevel cutter. One thing important is to remove the backer board if you are using the straight cutter, and make sure it is in place if you are using the bevel cutter.
I made up some sheets to help me figure out mat sizes for double and triple mats. If you think it would be helpful, I could post them here somewhere for download, or email them to you. There is a lot of good info at Logan's website as well!
Oh...almost forgot!! That thing Les was referring to is called a "bone folder"...now, before you get all nasty here, it's called that because it is used to crease heavy paper to assist folding it...and it was made out of animal bone a long time ago when animals had bones & you could use them for stuff.
You can find bone folders at arts & crafts stores usually in the stamping and scrapbooking sections.
As an aside for checking square, measure diagonals to make sure they are the same (watch out, a trapezoid is also checked this way).
To check a framing square (not a "t" square): Place the square along the edge of a work table which is a known straight line. Draw a line along the leg which is perpendicular to the edge against the table. Next, flip the square over and draw the same line with the square on the table edge pointing in the opposite direction. This will double any error and allow you to see any variations. Sorry about the complicated nature of this description.
another useful tool is a WHITE emery board or a small bit of WHITE sandpaper (fine) glued to a popsicle stick. If you forget to change your blade and a fuzzy edge, even the bone folder will not work to clean it up. If you are careful and go at the same angle you can lightly sand the fuzzies off. DO NOT use colored ones. They leave the same color they are behind. It also works in those corners you left a slight bit of material in if you don't get it cut just right.