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  1. #61

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sean
    ok maybe I spoke too soon, some of my longer window cuts are not straight. It looks like the 6inches or so side cuts are straight but anything over 7.5inches is sort of bowed out looking. Anyone want to give me some advice before I waste more board? I have trying different pulling methods and fresh underboard.. hmmm..
    Ahh....one of those huh? It helps if you read the manual..

    If you are getting a "hook" at the corners, there are two possibilities, your blade is not deep enough or it is too tight against the sliding support. To set the blade deeper, turn the top screw counter clock wise. To separate the blade from the sliding support there is a little screw on the base that you press down, turn it CCW too.

    You should have the blade deep enough so that it slightly scores you support mat, and it should be just right against the sliding support or the blade gets pushed out and results in the "hook". I had the same problems and had to fiddle with the depth and "press" until I got it right.

  2. #62
    Baxter Bradford's Avatar
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    In addition to Jorge's advice.
    I have had the odd one which I struggled with, like you thinking it must be the way I pulled the cutter. I was advised to get my shoulder in line with the cut and to ensure I pulled exactly along the line of cut.

    First check blade retaining screw is tight. Then try changing the blade, some seem not to be ground as precisely and tend to wander.

  3. #63
    Sean's Avatar
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    Ok, things are going better, I have tried to keep more of a consistent pressure and make the cut quickly..

  4. #64
    glbeas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sean
    Ok, well after alllll this time I have finally setup my Logan650 today to start cutting mats. This machine looked insanely intimidating but walking through the steps it has gelled rather easily for me, and I just made a perfect overmat with a piece of scrap board. It was so easy I almost couldn't believe it! I love this tool! very pleased
    Oh yeah! Mines a dream to use. You need to be sure the squaring guide is really square, it can be adjusted. I do my cuts from the end drawing towards me. That keeps the pressure even during the cut. Be sure the scrap board under your good mat you are cutting is thick enough to get a good bite with the pressure and that the blade is plunging the right depth. I usually use the mat board I plan to mount the print on as the bottom piece for cutting the mat and turn it with the upper mat as I cut. The scores resulting from this provides a guide to centering the print during mounting. As always measure twice cut once!
    Gary Beasley

  5. #65
    Sean's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jorge
    Ahh....one of those huh? It helps if you read the manual..

    If you are getting a "hook" at the corners, there are two possibilities, your blade is not deep enough or it is too tight against the sliding support. To set the blade deeper, turn the top screw counter clock wise. To separate the blade from the sliding support there is a little screw on the base that you press down, turn it CCW too.

    You should have the blade deep enough so that it slightly scores you support mat, and it should be just right against the sliding support or the blade gets pushed out and results in the "hook". I had the same problems and had to fiddle with the depth and "press" until I got it right.
    definitely getting that slight 'hook' at the corners. I'll try adjusting the blade, thanks!

  6. #66
    Bob F.'s Avatar
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    One other thing is to not try and make the cut in one go - take 2 or 3 cuts to make it all the way through the mount board. I have a cheaper cutter and find that trying to cut in one swipe causes problems: probably because the blade flexes under the pressure.

    Cheers, Bob.

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