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  1. #11
    Richard Sintchak (rich815)'s Avatar
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    Thanks Andrew. As mentioned in that post I believe most were at f/5.6.
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    "Well, my photos are actually much better than they look..."

    Richard S.
    Albany, CA (San Francisco bay area)

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  2. #12
    Richard Sintchak (rich815)'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne View Post
    HP5 is what i have, and its all I will have.
    Well, not like HP5+ will not work but unless you have a lot of artificial lighting illuminating the buildings and landscape your may well be at 8-10min or longer for EACH image to make up for the reciprocity failure. That can make for some LONG and boring night shooting. My strong recommendation on the Acros was due to the nice wide tonal range I get from seeingly contrasty night scenes and the much shorter exposure time needed. I also think Acros will prove much more forgiving in terms of exposure and development.
    -----------------------

    "Well, my photos are actually much better than they look..."

    Richard S.
    Albany, CA (San Francisco bay area)

    My Flickr River of photographs
    http://flickriver.com/photos/rich815...r-interesting/

    My Photography Website
    http://www.lightshadowandtone.com

  3. #13
    Andrew Moxom's Avatar
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    Doh.... Missed that!!!!! Thanks Rich.
    Please check out my website www.amoxomphotography.com and APUG Portfolio .....

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by TheFlyingCamera View Post
    To the OP: How are you planning to develop the film? My personal approach with HP5+ would be to set the meter to ISO 200, expose for the midtones, and develop at an N- to keep the highlights under control. Meter the highlights to see how far apart they are from your midtones to know how much N- development to give. N-2 would be a good starting point if you must do it by guess.
    I'm used to sheet film and being able to develop individually, but I didn't bring my 4x5. So I may end up shooting low contrast shots on one roll, and shots with light sources on another. I have plenty of time, so I can shoot one type of scene on a given night and another the next. Then I could N+ some and N- others. I'm thinking the shadowy scenes without light point sources would benefit from N++ at least

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by rich815 View Post
    Well, not like HP5+ will not work but unless you have a lot of artificial lighting illuminating the buildings and landscape your may well be at 8-10min or longer for EACH image to make up for the reciprocity failure. That can make for some LONG and boring night shooting. My strong recommendation on the Acros was due to the nice wide tonal range I get from seeingly contrasty night scenes and the much shorter exposure time needed. I also think Acros will prove much more forgiving in terms of exposure and development.

    I appreciate that, but HP5 is all I will have. I have plenty of time, so long exposures are not a problem. And I'm not too concerned about wide tonal range for my subject matter, I'm more concerned about getting some snap in the more poorly lit ones.

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by ROL View Post
    The type of (monochrome negative) film is unlikely to be much of a factor. Commit to you the film you have and aim for normal development. You will almost certainly get good contrast at night, with artificial light, especially if you meter as I previously indicated, making certain you have at least 6 or 7 zones down into the shadows from the highlights. A major reason night photography is so impactful is because of all but unavoidable contrast, particularly from the difference between bright point sources and inky shadows.

    Here is an 80% crop of an 11X14 print with shotgunned exposure, with only in–ground accent garden floodlighting (135 Ilford PanF+, XTOL):


    Very nice, this is roughly the effect I am looking for.

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