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  1. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by mark

    I have been told that you need to dilute the developer more than normal. Is this true and how much.
    I am diluting Pyrocat-HD 2:2:100 to Semi-Stand develop Efke 100, J&C Classic Plus 400 and Kodak TMY. I get the same results with higher dilutions - - it just takes longer.

    Quote Originally Posted by mark

    Heck if the negs aren't moving I am not screwing them up.
    Yes indeed! Well - at least I'm not scratching them!
    Tom Hoskinson
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  2. #22

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    When I use the semi stand method I fill the tube up and then place the cap on. You leave the tubes standing vertically (well I do anyway) ensuring that the small airpocket remains at the top away from the neg. If you need to agitate (semi stand) then pick up the tube and rotate/shake and replace it standing up. It uses more solution but at 1:1:400 who cares

    I use Pyrocat at 1:1:400 for this method with FP4. My attempts of this with 5x4 negs have all been sucsessful and sharpness is superb done this way

    Phill
    It is not tradition that secures the survival of our craft, its the craft that secures the survival of our traditions.

  3. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by mark
    That is exactly what Fancesco was saying. You fill that sucker up. I have been hesitant to do it this way because of the huge amount of fixer it would require.

    The slosher idea sounds pretty doable though.

    I hope you don't mind if I add a question to this.

    I have been told that you need to dilute the developer more than normal. Is this true and how much.

    Heck if the negs aren't moving I am not screwing them up.
    The dilute developer is the only chemical that I fully fill my tube. For stop bath the amount is reduced. The fixer is in a tray. Once the film is "stopped" the film can be removed from the tube and fixed in a tray.

    I dilute Pyrocat 1-1-120. This will build enough density range (contrast) in an Efke PL100 negative to allow one to print a SBR 5.5 negative on grade two Azo.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Hoskinson
    There are no stupid questions!

    You can process 6 sheets of 5x7 with one 16x20 tray and 1 5x7 slosher tray that fits inside it.

    1. Pour 2 liters of tempered water into the 16x20 tray, insert the slosher tray and pre-soak the film. Then add the developer concentrate to the soak water and agitate for 30 seconds.

    2. At the halfway point, agitate for another 30 seconds.

    3. When the development time is up, pour the necessary amount of non-hardening fixer concentrate directly into the developer and agitate (this is a Pat Gainer trick and it works very well).

    4. Dump the used developer/fixer and wash the film in the slosher/16x20 tray combo, using multiple changes of water. The wash water needs to be within a degree or so of the soak/development/fixing chemistry - AVOID THERMAL SHOCKS!
    Are you kidding me? All I need is one tray to do this in and I don't have to pour anything out in between? I was wanting to do tray development as I thought it would be much easier when developing my inspection and now you're telling me that it's even easier than I thought!?!?!? Do you really do it this way, Tom, as I don't have space for multiple 16x20 trays and this sounds fabulous! (As you can tell, there are lots of exclamation marks because I'm quite excited! )

    To keep things even simpler I could just have 4-5 gallons of water in jugs that have been tempered to room temperature over time and once I use one I can just fill it back up again--removing the need to worry about temperature changes in the water.
    Let's see what I've got in the magic trash can for Mateo!

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  5. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeremy Moore
    Are you kidding me? All I need is one tray to do this in and I don't have to pour anything out in between? I was wanting to do tray development as I thought it would be much easier when developing my inspection and now you're telling me that it's even easier than I thought!?!?!? Do you really do it this way, Tom, as I don't have space for multiple 16x20 trays and this sounds fabulous! (As you can tell, there are lots of exclamation marks because I'm quite excited! )

    To keep things even simpler I could just have 4-5 gallons of water in jugs that have been tempered to room temperature over time and once I use one I can just fill it back up again--removing the need to worry about temperature changes in the water.
    Here is an Efke PL100 8x10 semi-stand developed by the technique I described. The Pyrocat-HD dilution was 2:2:100 and the development time was 16.5 minutes at 21C.

    http://www.apug.org/gallery/showphot...cat=500&page=1

    BTW: I use water in jugs (1 liter and 2 liter Nalgene) that is at my darkroom temperature. Ditto for my stock concentrates.

    I do my film/developer testing in a SS tank with 120 roll film on Hewes SS reels. I use the same procedures that I use for LF sheet film.
    Tom Hoskinson
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  6. #26

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    Here is the uncropped 8x10 Azo Contact Print that the previously posted detail was taken from.

    http://www.apug.org/gallery/showphot...cat=500&page=1
    Tom Hoskinson
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    Everything is analog - even digital :D

  7. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by Francesco
    The main compartment of the tube is made about 1 or 1.5 inches higher than the film's top edge when fully inserted (film is inserted long side vertical). This would allow one to fill the tube with developer and have the film lying about half and inch or so below the water level. Screw on the tube cap and start the development procedures accordingly.
    What kind of "tubes" are we talking about here? Something other than a JOBO drum, it appears.
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  8. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by wfwhitaker
    What kind of "tubes" are we talking about here? Something other than a JOBO drum, it appears.
    We're talking about BTZS tubes as described in Phil Davis book Beyond the Zone system. I and many others have simply made our own from normal diy materials

    Do a search on APUG and I am sure you will find details of how to make them big enough for 8x10 (10x8)

    Phill
    It is not tradition that secures the survival of our craft, its the craft that secures the survival of our traditions.

  9. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by wdemere
    I'm pretty sure that BTZS tubes (at least the 4x5 tubes I have) are NOT made this way. You must agitate fairly often (roll every 10-15 seconds at the least) or you get nice lines on your negative. I get this effect even when overfilling the cap as much as possible. Though I suppose you could fill the entire tube with developer if you wanted, but that defeats the convenience/purpose of the cap.

    Just a warning to those who might try it....
    I use Pyrocat HD 1:1:120 and need only 25 ml of A and B solutions to develop 4 sheets of 8x10 film. The amount of fixer I use is about 1 liter and is poured onto an 8x10 tray. I do not throw the fixer out after one session. I reuse for a few more then replenish with fresh fixer when appropriate.

    Regarding the convenience of the cap. I start by filling it with water and then roll the tubes for 5 mins for the presoak. I also use the cap after I dump the developer - I fill it again with water for a 1 minute rinse before removing the negative from the tubes and laying it out on the tray with fixer.

    Over 200 sheets of 8x10 developed using minimal agitation and not one unevenly developed.

    PROVISO: I would not use minimal agitation for negatives in which sky area comprises more than 50 per cent of the scene. Minimal agitation has a tendency to "smudge" sky areas if there are enough of it (see AZO forum for more on this).
    Francesco

  10. #30

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    Quote Originally Posted by wfwhitaker
    What kind of "tubes" are we talking about here? Something other than a JOBO drum, it appears.
    I use a modified BTZS 3-piece tube designed by Donald Miller. It comprises a cap, a middle piece, and a third piece, the main compartment. The middle and third piece will accomodate an 8x10 sheet of film with room to spare (this is a must) when screwed together. The 3-piece design allows for easier insertion and removal of the sheet of film.
    Francesco

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