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  1. #21
    polyglot's Avatar
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    I'm going to try to lay this blue shadows thing to rest once and for all with two shots from the same roll of Ektar.

    The first shot is largely illuminated by sunshine but at the bottom right there are areas in shadow and they are very blue. This is to be expected because they're illuminated by skylight (maybe 12000K) whereas the rest of the scene was balanced for morning sunlight (5000K). Ektar's high saturation enhances the colour-temperature difference between these areas so the shadows look blue because they are blue in real life. If this is the "blue shadows" that people are seeing, it's a function of the mixed lighting and high saturation film. Any chrome will do the same.

    The second shot was taken on the same day in one of those alleys pictured as being blue above. As you can see, it has balanced nicely for the blue light in the scene and the image looks pretty neutral to me. Note also that there is NO shift in hue towards blue in the shadows here because Ektar doesn't actually have such a shift. With uniform lighting colour-temp, Ektar gives neutral results all the way from shadows to highlights.

  2. #22
    Alan Klein's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by magneticred View Post
    I shoot Ektar 100 in both 120 roll film and 4x5 sheets. Easy to develop at home with the c-41 press kit, easy to scan. I use a spot meter when doing LF, and sunny 16 when using my Yashica D. Very rarely, do I get a poor exposure using 100 iso.
    Here are some Ektar 100 examples taken with my Yashica D
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/8387014...7630831836096/
    Those are great photos. How did you scan them and what PP did you use?

  3. #23
    Truzi's Avatar
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    I've only used a few rolls of Ektar so far, and I'm sure I can get more out of it after learning.
    However, I didn't find it difficult at all. I exposed it at box-speed, let the camera meter and received perfectly fine photos. They were more saturated than I'm used to from negative film, but I had no problems, and they were great.

    That said, as I get better at metering (I know in theory, but practice is always different) and what Ektar lends itself best to it, the photos will only be better. Make sure the exposure is correct, but I'd not worry about it other than that.
    Truzi

  4. #24

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    Polyglot - one common problem is when the overall scene lays comes out blue due to heavy overcast etc, or the dominant portion is in deep shade. This kind of problem needs to be corrected with warming filters at the time of the shot. It cannot always be post-correct (despite the constant progaganda of PS addicts). With mixed lighting, one has to make an esthetic choice of whether to correct or not. But yeah, Ektar is actually more accurate in the shadows than Portra. But folks accustomed to things being artifically warmed for the sake of pleasing skintones
    might be find blue shadows at bit unnerving. People were pretty pissed off at Manet and Monet seeing blue in the shadows too.

  5. #25

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    And does anyone here know any sort of table with the reciprocity failure for Ektar 100 4"5".
    I'm going to be doing some long exposures (30minutes to 1h30) and it would be good to know more about the subject

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