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  1. #11
    ericdan's Avatar
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    @Nuff, thanks! That's a good idea. 500 bucks is doable sometime down the road. Until the end of the year I am proabably stuck with the zeiss 35mm f2.8 I just bought. Surely, if I shoot Delta3200 at 6400 even my slow lens should be enough?!

  2. #12

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    Should be enough, it will be grainy and I used it in dark karaoke rooms, although it was @f2 and 1/15, still with Leica and stead hands you might do 1/8th. So street should be even more doable. And in the photo you describe, I can see that motion blur would add to the photo dynamics.

  3. #13
    ericdan's Avatar
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    Haha! That's a solution!

  4. #14

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    Oh, didn't see you had slide film loaded... Personally, depending on where you were on the roll I would've bailed and popped in a roll of B/W. Not the best for every situation, but you can push the heck out of it. Like Nuff said - f2 is perfect for low light. Leica is even better... You can train yourself to shoot steadier, and get shots that you wouldn't have been able to get with an SLR.

  5. #15
    StoneNYC's Avatar
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    Yes HP5+ will push to 3200 well.

    I just a few minutes ago posted an example...

    http://www.apug.org/forums/1651923-post.html

    And I have heard Portra400 will push to 1600 as someone else mentioned. I don't shoot CN films, I prefer E-6 but perhaps it's time to start!

    The natura1600 that doesn't exist anymore (I mean they don't make it new).

    I always leave at least a roll of HP5+ (or currently Neopan400 till my stock runs out) for low light scenes.
    ~Stone | "...of course, that's just my opinion. I could be wrong." ~Dennis Miller

  6. #16

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    My "glovebox M6" is always loaded with either HP5+ or Tri-X. While I generally shoot the two films at 200 ISO, both also do well (according to my standards...lol) up to 1600 (some might argue 3200).
    An assortment of F-series Nikons (F to F6, excluding the F4) with quite a few Nikkors, a pair of M6s with some Leitz glass, a pair of 500c/ms with a wide range of Zeiss optics and, just to help keep Duracell solvent, a D800.

    Favourite films: (1). KE ("Kodachrome Era"): 35mm: PKM25 and PKR64, HP5/Tri-X; 120: PKR64, PanF, FP4. (2). PKE ("Post-Kodachrome Era"): (a) 35mm: E100G, HP5 Plus/Tri-X and Delta 3200; (b) 120: E100G, PanF Plus, FP4 Plus, TMax 100.

  7. #17
    StoneNYC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BradleyK View Post
    My "glovebox M6" is always loaded with either HP5+ or Tri-X. While I generally shoot the two films at 200 ISO, both also do well (according to my standards...lol) up to 1600 (some might argue 3200).
    You keep your Mamiya 6 in the glovebox? It is that the Leica M6?

    What's your car look like again?...
    ~Stone | "...of course, that's just my opinion. I could be wrong." ~Dennis Miller

  8. #18
    MattKrull's Avatar
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    What about Tmax 400?
    Kodak claims it has an extra stop of latitude in both directions, so you can shoot 200iso - 800iso all on the same roll.

  9. #19
    StoneNYC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattKrull View Post
    What about Tmax 400?
    Kodak claims it has an extra stop of latitude in both directions, so you can shoot 200iso - 800iso all on the same roll.
    800 is not enough for squat in low light...
    ~Stone | "...of course, that's just my opinion. I could be wrong." ~Dennis Miller

  10. #20
    Newt_on_Swings's Avatar
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    Id shoot a few shots anyway, something might show. Switching mid roll is a bad idea, you will forget at some point and get overlap or worse, unintended double exposure or forgetting to cap the lens when quickly advancing to the intended frame you stopped at after reloading it. Or just carry a flash, it seems lots of people really are against flash these days but sometimes it's exactly what's needed.

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