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  1. #11
    Richard Sintchak (rich815)'s Avatar
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    Why did you shoot FP4+ at 200? What was your metering technique? Can you show us an example of what you'd consider the kind of "punch" you were hoping for in another image?
    -----------------------

    "Well, my photos are actually much better than they look..."

    Richard S.
    Albany, CA (San Francisco bay area)

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  2. #12
    markbarendt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ericdan View Post
    I am still practicing the printing part.
    We all are.
    Mark Barendt, Beaverton, OR

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin

  3. #13
    ericdan's Avatar
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    I shot FP4+ because I wanted to try it out. Heard many good things about the film on this forum. My metering technique was sunny 16. So for hazy sun I go one stop down. F11 at 1/250th for most of them. Sometimes when I wanted to freeze the waves I shot it at f8 and 1/500th.
    I shot Tri-X 400 at 400 a few week back. (I like those results better somehow) See here: https://flic.kr/s/aHsjYtemJF
    Although this was also with flash mostly and on the GR1v.

  4. #14
    markbarendt's Avatar
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    I'm not understanding your "one stop down" thought.

    f/11 at 1/250 is the same EV setting as f/16 at 1/125, as is f/8 at 1/500. Your settings are all variants of sunny 16 at box speed, EI 125, not EI 200.

    Sunny 16 at EI 200 would be f/11 at 1/400 or f/16 at 1/200 or f/8 at 1/800.
    Mark Barendt, Beaverton, OR

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin

  5. #15
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ericdan View Post
    That's right it was overcast. The blue sky just stated to show towards the end of the roll. I need to try FP4+ again on a sunny day and maybe at box speed and start experimenting from there.
    Because it was overcast you got away with shooting @ 200EI. in fact that probably increased the contrast slightly in your favor. If you read Ansel Adams - Thwe Negative that would be around N+1 using the Zone System.

    The Negative is one of the best books on Film exposure and processing well worth buying a copy.

    Ian

  6. #16
    ericdan's Avatar
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    f/8 at 1/500 so I can freeze the wave. I understand that it's the same as f/11 at 1/250th.
    My understanding of sunny 16 is: f/16 at 1/250th on a sunny day if I shoot iso200 film.
    Since it was overcast but still bright I opened the aperture to f/11.
    By 'sunny 16' i mean that I start at sunny 16 and then adjust according to the light. In this case opening up the aperture to f/11.
    Maybe I should've kept it the same because the sand was almost white and reflecting, too.

  7. #17
    Richard Sintchak (rich815)'s Avatar
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    Seeing more info now and looking again at the images I think your contrast is in line as to what was to be expected. I see in your Flickr stream you shoot a lot of digital and often with flash and I see a lot of "punch". Perhaps used to that you find these FP4+ images lacking punch in your mind...
    -----------------------

    "Well, my photos are actually much better than they look..."

    Richard S.
    Albany, CA (San Francisco bay area)

    My Flickr River of photographs
    http://flickriver.com/photos/rich815...r-interesting/

    My Photography Website
    http://www.lightshadowandtone.com

  8. #18
    markbarendt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ericdan View Post
    f/8 at 1/500 so I can freeze the wave. I understand that it's the same as f/11 at 1/250th.
    My understanding of sunny 16 is: f/16 at 1/250th on a sunny day if I shoot iso200 film.
    Since it was overcast but still bright I opened the aperture to f/11.
    By 'sunny 16' i mean that I start at sunny 16 and then adjust according to the light. In this case opening up the aperture to f/11.
    I see your line of thought now.

    Quote Originally Posted by ericdan View Post
    Maybe I should've kept it the same because the sand was almost white and reflecting, too.
    You seem to be thinking about exposure like you are shooting slides or jpeg's; like there is a direct link between exact camera exposure and the result.

    With negatives that isn't true.

    Using FP4+ in DD-X for my normal subject matter, I can normally make almost exactly the same print from any frame shot anywhere between the EI's of 250 and 25, developed with RolloPyro FP4+'s range falls between EI's 160 and 6, at least for me.

    Enlarger exposure is simply adjusted to "correct" for the variance in EI. Adjusting enlarger exposure allows me to pick the range of info I want off the negative.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    In this illustration only the info between the red lines prints, the red lines are the black and white points of the paper. When printing nothing outside the lines shows detail. Adjusting enlarger exposure moves these lines up or down in tandem, adjusting paper grade moves the lines closer or further apart.
    Last edited by markbarendt; 05-26-2014 at 09:40 AM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: Clarity
    Mark Barendt, Beaverton, OR

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin

  9. #19
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ericdan View Post
    That's right it was overcast. The blue sky just stated to show towards the end of the roll. I need to try FP4+ again on a sunny day and maybe at box speed and start experimenting from there.
    Overcast days have about a 3 stop shorter brightness range than sunny days. Typically, when using rollfilm, one would print the frames from overcast scenes on a higher grade paper.

  10. #20
    Jaf-Photo's Avatar
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    I can't see your photo, but FP4 typically produces very smooth gradients.

    If you want high contrast you have to add it afterwards.

    I did shoot some FP4 at EI 400 by accident but it came out fine with XTOL.

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