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  1. #1
    ericdan's Avatar
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    Arer these FP4+ results typical?

    I shoot a roll of FP4+ @200 on sunday. I developed it using ID-11 according to the instructions in the film packaging.
    http://flic.kr/s/aHsjYoufF7



    1. stock dev for 10 mins (agitate 10sec every min)
    2. ilford stop bath for 10 seconds
    3. ilford rapid fix for 3 mins
    4. 5 mins wash
    5. 30seconds fuji flo


    I don't know what it is, but the photos don't look as punchy as I'd like them to be.
    Would Tri-X at 200 be punchier? Or should I change something when developing the film?

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    You can change the contrast to give punchier images in the printing stage or post scanning - DPUG is the place to discuss that aspect.

    Tri-X @ 200EI will give flatter negatives and greater detail in the tones, so would shooting FP4 at a slower speed.

    Ian

  3. #3

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    Where Ilford say

    3 mins in rapid fix Id use 6 minutes
    5 -10 mins wash Id use 10 minutes

    this gets you archival permenance...

    The EI you set on the meter depends on how you meter but it is less risky to shoot at half speed (50) for FP than double speed (200).

    HP5+ at 200 if you need 200

    Microphen (or similar Kodak) gets a 1/3 stop if you need speed.

  4. #4
    Regular Rod's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ericdan View Post
    I shoot a roll of FP4+ @200 on sunday. I developed it using ID-11 according to the instructions in the film packaging.
    http://flic.kr/s/aHsjYoufF7



    1. stock dev for 10 mins (agitate 10sec every min)
    2. ilford stop bath for 10 seconds
    3. ilford rapid fix for 3 mins
    4. 5 mins wash
    5. 30seconds fuji flo


    I don't know what it is, but the photos don't look as punchy as I'd like them to be.
    Would Tri-X at 200 be punchier? Or should I change something when developing the film?

    Thanks
    Change exposure not developer in this case. Box speed FP4 Plus is a good start (125 ISO)

    RR

  5. #5
    markbarendt's Avatar
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    I think you are probably trying to solve the problem with the wrong variable, the film.

    Yes, switching films will get you a different result but there's no telling if you'll like the result better and switching films for this type of issue is actually a classic symptom of magic bullet chasing. Magic bullets (magic film/developer combos) do not exist. Both FP4+ and Tri X are excellent, but both will also take work and adjustments to your process to get the exact result you prefer.

    The punchiness of the print is adjustable, looking at the results you posted I'd say the issue is probably in your printing process, not the film choice or processing.

    If you want punchier you can simply adjust to a harder paper grade rather than changing the film development. If you find yourself always adjusting to a harder grade you can experiment with upping the film development time to say 11 or 12 or whatever. The instructions provided suggest that the times listed are just a starting point, it is normal to have to adjust them.

    There are many reasons why a contrast adjustment may be needed. One example is the camera lenses we choose, my old large format camera lenses seem to make negatives that need a little harder paper than my Mamiya or Nikons, my Holga even harder. Another example is the lighting of the scene, another is the subject matter itself, and yet another is your mood.

    If the result you're judging is created digitally then there is a whole extra layer of complexity that may be hiding what the negative is really showing you and neither switching films nor adjusting development may change things the way you hope, nor even be necessary to get what you want.
    Last edited by markbarendt; 05-26-2014 at 08:44 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    Mark Barendt, Beaverton, OR

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin

  6. #6
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    Typical negatives have around seven-tenths the overall contrast of the original scene; keep this in mind when evaluating negatives on a light table. Print them on #3 paper and see how they look. If they are still lacking in contrast, increase development by 25% for the next roll.

  7. #7
    hoffy's Avatar
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    I personally don't think that the images are too flat. It also looked a bit overcast in a few of them. This will always have an effect.

    But, of course, YMMV.

  8. #8
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    That's right it was overcast. The blue sky just stated to show towards the end of the roll. I need to try FP4+ again on a sunny day and maybe at box speed and start experimenting from there.

  9. #9
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    looks great to me. as noted, the printing process is where you can increase the contrast.

  10. #10
    ericdan's Avatar
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    I am still practicing the printing part. Thanks a lot for all the replies.

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