What about using a pinhole and some ND's.
Thank you all for your interesting suggestions.
I just want to shoot in busy city streets and have the traffic out of the picture and the shadows blurred. As you suggest, maybe a quarter of an hour is enough. Yes, the light (even in winter) is quite strong so it'll be more difficult than in Norway (this time of the year)... The winter daylight in Athens is beautiful, on the other hand... especially some days when the smog is not present...
I have to order some Efke 25 in 4x5, since there is no way to find it here in Athens.
I don't want to stack NDs because of the vignetting (I might be using a wide angle) and the price. I don't want the pinhole "look" and I am afraid the cheap ND in sheets will degrade the picture quality even if I place them behind the lens (as diffraction when using f45 will, too).
I cannot have a bellows extension when not shooting close-up...
I know that reciprocity failure will help, although I am not aware of the degree (with Efke film)... does someone have a fact sheet with the necessary reciprocity correction with the Efke 25 ?
I will make some tests to see what exp. times I get with an ISO 25 film and a red filter (or maybe just ONE ND filter) and see how it goes...
See http://www.jandcphoto.com/index.asp?...on=Custom&ID=1 for everything you need to know about the Efke films, including reciprocity data. I think with one decent 3-stop ND filter (remember, if you mount the filter on the back of the lens the coatings aren't nearly as important since you're not exposing the filter to direct light from the sides), a small aperture, and Efke 25, you should be able to get your exposure pretty long without resorting to any other "tricks".
Good luck with your experiments. I'd love to see the results when you're done.
Film is cheap. Opportunities are priceless.
The easiest way I know to do this exposure is to use 2 polariser filters. When they are dialed one way you have moderate ND which makes focussing easy, when dialed the other you get virtually no transmission of light. Combine this with f stops and you will have your 1 hour exposure. Experiment with some P-roid films or by mounting the P-roid filters on a 35mm or 2 1/4 camera. Do a few tests, mark your filters with a dot of typewriter white out on the filter rim. Not a problem. Let us know if this solution works for you.
I've done what you are trying to do a couple of different ways, 1) with long exposure as you were eluding to (and it seems you know how the get those now) and 2) by multiple exposures. If you have a given base exposure, divide it by at least four. An exposure for 1/4 of the base exposure time is about the point where the subject will not register on film and/or will become very ghost like. Note that reciprocity failure can be introduced in some films when doing multiple exposures (in particular color films).
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Why not use a speed reducing developer, like PPD, possibly in addition to the other methods described above?
for a 1 second exposure (at f/1 for example), 12 steps away brings you to 60minutes (or f/64), well within the range of ND filters
a photographer you might already be aware of, who could be of some interest as they produce photographs similar to what you seem to want, long exposures of the street with a large format, in this photographer, Tokihiro Sato's case an 8x10
http://photoarts.com/gallery/SATO/87.html dont know if the top right corner is due to movements or not..
"Where is beauty? Where I must will with my whole Will; where I will love and perish, that an image may not remain merely an image."
As you may be aware, John Sexton works very effectively with long exposures - enjoying the quality of emerging or dwindling light. He has provided a guide to reciprocity departure using TMax film which may be of interest to you. I have used his guide with good results.
His recommendation for TMax 100 (EI 64) at a meter indicated exposure of 15 minutes should actually be exposed for 60 minutes. With this exposure, the negative will yield an N+2 contrast. To achieve normal contrast, you would want to plan for contracted development by derating the film speed by 1/3 to 2/3 of a stop to preserve shadow detail and giving N-2 development.
All of this would work toward your desired longer exposure.
Thank you all again for your help.
I've thought about the two polarisers already, it's a somewhat expensive solution (if I want to get two good ones)...
This Sato guy is great, I didn't know about him... he goes around with a flash or a torch and creates those strange light spots, huh ?
Thank you for the info on Tmax film, although I'd never use it...
I am afraid that I heve still not found the time to experiment with this thing, but I will soon, and I'll let you know how it has come out...
Hi guys and girls, I finally found the time to make some tests and here are the results:
Shot Fortepan 200 with an IR filter (the one that is too dark to see anything but the sun through it) at f8 and an exposure of 3.25 hours gave excellent results (rodinal 1+50, 11 min).
Shot Ilford Ortho with a deep red filter and f32 for 30 minutes and the results were OK too. Developed it toghether with the Forte, but it actually needed less time in the soup (8 minutes would have given great highlight detail, now they are dense).
All tests were made at bright sunlight, outside.
Already posted this in a more recent relative thread, but I just wanted you to know I haven't forgot about this one :-)