Exposure With Barrel Lenses
Apart from "winging-it" with a Packard shutter, how are the Jim Gallis of the world making decent images with barrel lenses? Given the burgeoning interest in ultra large format and its attendant expense, I am amazed that there is so little information on this subject.
While ULF isn't my cup-o-tea, I do occasionally use barrel lenses. My opinion is that, since small stops are usually the norm, neutral density and/or other filters are easy to use to get exposure into the one second or more range. No shutter necessary, just a lens cap. Exposures of one or more seconds are easy to accurately time, too.
In years past, lens caps worked with very slow film and reciprocity was not an issue as it is today. Also, the use of a lens cap will certainly introduce camera shake which is more pronounced in larger formats.
So what is it that those of us who use lenses in conventional shutters are missing?
i use a slr ( series d ) + speed graphic, with working focal plane shutters, so i really don't need to worry about a shutter with my lens ...
Jim posted something a while back about using some darkslides as a makshift shutter. It sounded like it should be easy and useful.
Sponsored Ad. (Subscribers to APUG have the option to remove this ad.)
Originally Posted by Flauvius
A lens cap shutter doesn't HAVE to induce motion.
My Deardorff doesn't mind it a bit.
And a Packard, at it's 1/15 - 1/20 of a second, is more repeatable than a new Copal. ( don't scream until you try it )
Say a sheet of TMY, on a bright sunny day, wants... 1/250 @ f/16.
1/250 @ f/16 = 1/60 @ f/32 = 1/15 (Packard Shutter) and 2 stops of filtration. Pretty easy.
With an unshuttered lens, I like to aim for a 1 second exposure. With a long straight line like TMY, a stop extra exposure isn't noticeable, so I only need to hit between 1 and 3 seconds and that's easy.
60/30/15/8/4/2/1 = 7 stops = easy with a couple ND filters.
It's even easier in lower light. With older films, with serious reciprocity compensation, you can make it work FOR you.
A 1 second exposure needs an additional 1 stop, or 2 seconds.
A 5 second exposure wants a stop and a half extra, or 7 1/2 seconds.
SO, if you want a one second exposure, reciprocity failure lets you land someplace between 2 and 5 seconds, and you are exceeding accurate.
Again, the whole business of working with a cap, or sock, or hat, or whatever... is a matter of simple technique. Easy. Thank goodness.
"One of the painful things about our time is that those who feel certainty are stupid,
and those with any imagination and understanding are filled with doubt and indecision"
Packard shutters aren't exactly "winging it". I'm using them with Artar, APO Nikkor, Ektanon, and of course with an acquired from Jim Galli Petzval. Now I do have a lot of lenses in modern, clockwork shutters, but I don't think I ever use a shutter speed faster than 1/30 sec very often. With a bit of practice, getting reasonably accurate slower speeds (1/4, 1/8) is quite easy.
Originally Posted by Flauvius
Some people are like Slinkies. They're really good for nothing, but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs.
Slow film, small stops, low light and a hat.
-- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
Take a look at my gallery and my Polarfleece sock shutter:
Small f stops and shutter speeds ranging from 2 seconds and longer with no camera shake.
Everything is analog - even digital :D
I have found my Day shutter very handy - clamps on any lens up to about 3 1/2" diameter, gives good bulb-timed speeds to about 1/8 plus an instantaneous speed of about 1/30 and is flash-synced. They were advertised in Britain until at least the mid-1950s, don't see many these days.