B&W, Rocks & Roots, exposure and separation questions

[Claire Senft]

This maybe an ideal situation for unsharp masking and printing on grade 4 or with a # 4 filter could be very helpful, Pre-exposing on zone 2 or 2 may also prove very helpful.

[jp80874]

This maybe an ideal situation for unsharp masking and printing on grade 4 or with a # 4 filter could be very helpful, Pre-exposing on zone 2 or 2 may also prove very helpful.

Thanks Claire. I normally use very little contrast, but was amazed at Les' work seen at the Toronto workshop. It was very effective and far more contrast than I have seen before.

Could you elaborate on "Pre-exposing on zone 2 or 2 " or give a link to an explanation. I do not know about this.

Thanks,

John Powers

[jp80874]

John, I would opt for recruiting the girls from the cheeleading squad. They are very strong and nimble and so much easier to look at. With such long exposure times you might want to consider using tmax 400. Although its not my favorite film you can't beat its reciprocity characteristics as I'm sure you are well aware of. A couple of those spring-open reflectors will be much easier for Les to drag across those rocks. They may even ride on the baby hauler without much problem. Just don't put a scratch on that new Phillips before I get a chance to see it.

Dolly and I saw your twenty 8x20 nudes exhibit. Wonderfull work. Congratulations. I thought you had all the cheer leaders tide up in knots.
I need lifters not lookers. Dolly, my wife for the rest of you, says I can shoot any models that are dead. That is why I am into the Rocks and Roots.
Come on over Robert. You are local and there are plenty of R&R to go around.

John Powers

[Claire Senft]

If you have a copy of Ansel Adam's book The Negative it is explained there. Basically to prexpose on Zone 1, use a grey card that is out of focus and evenly lit 4 stops less than normal exposure..3 stops less than normal for zone 2 pre-exposure. This will strengthen your shadows and add to their seperation. It is extremely easy to do.

[Les McLean]

John it's a bit like pre flashing paper. It sensitises film in just the same way. If you don't have Adams book and need the exact description PM me and I'll copy it to you

[Donald Miller]

Pre Exposing film actually does not contribute to tonal separation in the low values. It tends to compress the tonal scale at the lower end of the film's characterisitic curve and allows for good highlight tonal separation.

And no it is not anything like pre flashing paper. It works on the opposite end of the tonal scale. Pre flashing paper will compress highlight tonal separation.

[jp80874]

Claire and Les,

Thank you. I do have the Adams "The Negative" book. I tried to read it many years ago when I was happily stuck on 35mm and found it way over my head. I have done a lot of study work since then. I will re-read and see if it makes sense now.

Thanks,

John Powers

[RobertP]

Thanks John, I'm glad you liked them. Robert

[Harrigan]

John thanks for inviting me to come up for some shooting. It sounds like a very cool spot but its pretty far from me and funds are a bit tight right now.

I don't know about all this pre-flashing stuff but after you took those light readings you might really think about tmax 400. Doesn't pre-flashing lower the light sensitivity of the film by a large factor?

I have some images I could show you of very dark rocks and things but my scanner is out of commision so I can't post them right now. I shot them on tmax 100 on 4x5 and the tonal seperation is excellent. You might try doing some test shots on a smaller format and see how things come out. I would forget the ortho film its just way too slow for this kind of light. You may be talking hours of exposure with most ortho film!

[DBP]

The suggestion about using flashlights raises another thought - how about some angled light from a flashbulb, say maybe a #5 or even a #22?