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  1. #31

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    Quote Originally Posted by jp80874
    I started photographing the Rocks & Roots project many of you have helped me better understand. Loaded up the baby jogger with the 8x10 stuff and hiked up into the cliffs. Last evening as the first negatives came out of the Jobo I learned that it is harder than I knew to focus when it is so dark you need a six minute T Max 400 exposure @ f45. I also learned that my 8x10 camera has a lot more rise than my 300mm APO Symmar even though it has a 425mm image circle. It really was quite dark on Dave's very bright ground glass. Anyone with suggestions on how to see focus and vigneting in that little light will be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,
    John Powers
    How can you work without camera headlights?

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Les McLean
    John, take a piece of white card and lay it on the area where you have selected to focus. If it is still too dark I'm back to "the flashlight as part of the kit required to photograph in dark places", light the white card with the flashlight. Now how you do that while under the dark cloth is another question
    Les,
    This could work. I'll use your portrait with a little side light. You don't mind if I paint on a bulls eye do you, just for focusing work? Lock and load one 30 cal. shell.

    John

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by noseoil
    Try the old "mini light" focusing trick. Use two mini-mag lights set in the image at different places. Focus on the lights until they are correct, then remove the lights, stop down and shoot. If you are shooting in light this dark, a film which can be expanded fully will be a good choice. Still think Efke 25 is a decent choice, but I would use 4x5 to start out on this one, as trial and error will be what is needed. Sounds like a few acres of film may be expended to get the image you want. Best of luck, tim
    I like this is even better than the bulls eye. That should give me the depth of field that I think I need. I thought I would start out testing with film on hand which in 8x10 is T Max 400. It also cuts the reciprocity problem of 30-45 minute exposures. The mosquitoes are really bad. They only move over for the deer flies that are worse. I tried my Labrador as distraction bait, but there were enough mosquitoes to bite both of us.

    If I don't get the separation I need I will order in some Efke 25 4x5 as you suggest and just walk back to the car while it is working. I was quite surprised with the first 8x10 T Max negatives developed in Rollo Pyro. Disregarding the vignetting which should be cured using the 12 inch Dagor with 561mm image circle, the separation was surprisingly good. Thanks all for the suggestions. You all are really helping and it is appreciated.

    John Powers

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by waynecrider
    How can you work without camera headlights?
    [QUOTE=Thanks all for the suggestions. You all are really helping and it is appreciated.QUOTE] Well some of you are really helping. Wayne, I don't use headlights because I'm trying to hide from the mosquitoes. If I light the target (ooops) subject, maybe they will go there.

    John P.

  5. #35

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    Don't forget that with long exposures you will be getting a nice contrast kick from the film reciprocity. Another film to try is Tri-X. It's steep highlight curve can give some snap to a flat scene. I've photographed very often in the same area and over at Nelson Ledges SP during visits to Akron. They are great places with magical light. I think that some depends on if you want a more literal image or a more abstract high contrast one. Dark softness can be nice. If you make it too hot it can lose some of the feeling and be more about line and form. Another thing is that many of those tree roots are really quite bright against the rocks even in flat light. You really have to look for a scene with some of that contrast interest but in my opinion keep the scene from getting too hot looking. I never liked these things in the sun.
    Chuck Pere

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by noseoil
    Try the old "mini light" focusing trick. Use two mini-mag lights set in the image at different places. Focus on the lights until they are correct, then remove the lights, stop down and shoot. Best of luck, tim
    Tim,
    I want to thank you again for this idea. Lee L and his son David joined me today. We had a couple of two D cell flashlights from around the house. These worked perfectly for establishing the range of acceptable focus including some forward tilt and front swing, neither of which I could have seen in that light. To give a clue to the light level we had six and twelve minute exposures at f45.7 using T Max 400 set at 200 with reciprocity at three times meter reading. Thank you very much. Your idea made it possible. I hope to develop the 8x10 sheets tomorrow and see how it worked out. Lee said he knew where I could get much smaller but equally effective lights than what we borrowed from home.

    John Powers

  7. #37
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    John, glad it worked out well for your shot. Two of the mini-mag types wouldn't weigh too much if they are the small ones. I keep a small AAA type (cheap plastic) at work for plugging and unplugging wires at the back of my computer. The small beam is still enough to see a sharp focus if it is that dark there. Want to see a print in the gallery, once you have your technique perfected and find that shot. Sounds like an interesting project. Get some "deet" for that dog! tim

  8. #38

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    Campmor.com for inexpensive skeeter parkas & hoods

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