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  1. #61
    Aggie's Avatar
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  2. #62
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    Glad I could help, Aggie. Maybe if I'd stayed in Mensa longer I'd have been more ingenious and fixed you up with something fancier.
    Gary Beasley

  3. #63

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    Ok, David wanted another "why didnt I think of this?" trick. Instead of using a quick release for your LF cameras, tilt the head vertical and attach the camera...much simpler and you can use the entire head surface, not just those little surfaces the QR's give you.

  4. #64

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    Jorge,

    Not sure I get it (remembering that it took me a minute to get what "turn the lens sideways" meant). I have a Ries head, the old fashioned kind with the big plate and a screw in the middle. Do you mean turn that vertical?

    dgh

    David G Hall

  5. #65

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    </span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (David Hall @ Mar 6 2003, 02:48 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> Jorge,

    Not sure I get it (remembering that it took me a minute to get what &quot;turn the lens sideways&quot; meant). I have a Ries head, the old fashioned kind with the big plate and a screw in the middle. Do you mean turn that vertical?

    dgh </td></tr></table><span class='postcolor'>
    Yep, you got it. If you have a folding camera most people try to put it on with the head horizontal and bob and weave like a boxer to see where the screw hole is and then once they find it fight with the securing screw. If you turn the head vertical, you can see very well where the hole is, you dont have to fight the knob and you dont scratch your camera.

  6. #66

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    My coolest trick is probably the simplest. Although it only works for some 35mm cameras and not my MF or LF ones.

    I bought a Nikon N80 with the quartz date feature on it.

    So I can keep track of when I did a shoot (I use the N80 for street shooting), I simply take a picture of the general area on the first frame and then turn the QD feature OFF. This means only the first frame is imprinted. It is my "reference" frame. It makes it very easy to keep track of things and see how I am (hopefully) improving.

    Official Photo.net Villain
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    [FONT=Comic Sans MS]DaVinci never wrote an artist's statement...[/FONT]

  7. #67

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    That&#39;s what I need. A little thing that puts the time and date and maybe other information on the film edge when I expose a sheet of film. When you use Kodak and Fuji sheets there is always a little yellow or white logo and lot number that appears at the top of the sheet. Howcome it can&#39;t also say "ErcR, photographed at f/16 at 125th/second on March 7, 2003, requiring N+1 developpment"?

    dgh
    David G Hall

  8. #68

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    </span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (David Hall @ Mar 7 2003, 01:34 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> That&#39;s what I need.&nbsp; A little thing that puts the time and date and maybe other information on the film edge when I expose a sheet of film.&nbsp; When you use Kodak and Fuji sheets there is always a little yellow or white logo and lot number that appears at the top of the sheet.&nbsp; Howcome it can&#39;t also say "ErcR, photographed at f/16 at 125th/second on March 7, 2003, requiring N+1 developpment"?

    dgh </td></tr></table><span class='postcolor'>
    If that is really what you want the expo/dev BTZS palm program will do it. Apparently it is a rather neat program with lots of useful data uploaded.

    Of course it will not "print" it on the edge of your film, but then again what do you want and autofoucs 8x10?

  9. #69

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    Hey, they make electronic shutters now....

    Official Photo.net Villain
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  10. #70
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    Over on the LF forum a while back I read about someone who uses a Dremel to cut a slot in the filmholder flaps and then prints up an acetate on transparency material with a number to identify the filmholder and a copyright notice with his name and a year to fit in the slot, and this in turn gets printed on the film. You could probably do the same, but leave the acetate blank and write on it with some sort of erasable pen before removing the darkslide.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com



 

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