Discussions: 45,003 | Messages: 606,763 | Members: 29,738 | Online: 232 | Chatroom: 0
User Name:  Password:
 

"That is called grain. It is supposed to be there." -Flotsam


 
APUG search    RSS MOBILE
Customize Sidebar
Gum-Silver Process
Author: Dwane
870 view(s)
aj 12 + various things
Author: jnanian
395 view(s)
Kodak D-19
Author: Tom Hoskinson
816 view(s)
Go Back   APUG > APUG English Forums > General Discussion > Exposure Discussion > A hypothetical scenario - you choose the camera settings.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 03-12-2008, 02:57 AM   #11 (permalink)
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Victoria BC
Posts: 914
Default

f/11 1/100. Extra stop for safety.
__________________
The universe is a haunted house. -Coil
.
walter23 is offline   Reply With Quote Ignore this user Ignore this thread Ignore this forum
Old 03-12-2008, 03:23 AM   #12 (permalink)
Ole
 
Ole's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Bergen, Norway
Posts: 8,623
Blog Entries: 1
Default

Sunny 11 works fine here in Norway, but I use sunny 16 further south. In Eritrea (high altitude, no pollution, sun almost directly overhead) sunny 16 gave a half stop overexposure.
__________________
-- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
Norway
Ole is offline   Reply With Quote Ignore this user Ignore this thread Ignore this forum
Old 03-12-2008, 04:46 AM   #13 (permalink)
 
Ian Grant's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Turkey (West Midlands, UK)
Posts: 4,521
Default

Like Ole I've always used f11 @ 125th in the UK, except mid summer when f16 is better, but here in the Aegean f22 @ 125th is far more appropriate even in Winter sunlight.

Ian
__________________
My APUG portfolio
Ian Grant is offline   Reply With Quote Ignore this user Ignore this thread Ignore this forum
Old 03-12-2008, 09:19 AM   #14 (permalink)
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Sydney
Posts: 503
Default

In that kind of light I generally expose 400 ISO at f/11 @ 1/250 & pull the dev a little. I'm getting shadow detail but not getting the highlights too dense. So for this exercise I'd say f/8 at 1/125.
The basic sunny 16 settings I would mostly use for slide film where I'm more concerned with holding highlight detail. With B&W neg we have the luxury of being able to expose for the shadows & dev for the highlights.
goldie is offline   Reply With Quote Ignore this user Ignore this thread Ignore this forum
Old 03-12-2008, 09:38 AM   #15 (permalink)
 
jimgalli's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Tonopah Nevada
Posts: 2,406
Blog Entries: 2
Default

Move to Nevada. We have the sunny f22 rule about 330 days a year
__________________
He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep..to gain that which he cannot lose. Jim Elliot, 1949

http://tonopahpictures.0catch.com
jimgalli is offline   Reply With Quote Ignore this user Ignore this thread Ignore this forum
Sponsored Ad. (Subscribers to APUG have the option to remove this ad.)

Old 03-12-2008, 11:01 AM   #16 (permalink)
 
Snapshot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 769
Default

I would probably use an f-stop of f/8 and a shutter speed of 1/500th of a second. This setup will give me adequate depth of field and stop virtually all action.
__________________
"The secret to life is to keep your mind full and your bowels empty. Unfortunately, the converse is true for most people."
Snapshot is offline   Reply With Quote Ignore this user Ignore this thread Ignore this forum
Old 03-12-2008, 11:59 AM   #17 (permalink)
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 351
Default

I now see why I would determine an exposure several stops different than what the Sunny 16 rule defines to get a good exposure. What I've considered to be very sunny in all actuality is quite dark. So, I used a meter to take reference reading under similar conditions which gave me EV 13.5 off the scene directly and EV 14.5 off my hand. I'll bet that seems like nighttime to some folks.
DannL is offline   Reply With Quote Ignore this user Ignore this thread Ignore this forum
Old 03-13-2008, 12:22 AM   #18 (permalink)
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Portland OR USA
Posts: 819
Default

Mid summer early afternoon the sun wouldn't be at your back it would be beating down on your head. I would set my camera at 125 f16 and use flash fill.
dpurdy is offline   Reply With Quote Ignore this user Ignore this thread Ignore this forum
Old 03-16-2008, 12:38 PM   #19 (permalink)
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Winnipeg, MB, Canada
Posts: 449
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee Shively View Post
F/5.6 @ 1/1000. Bracket a couple of shots opening to f/4. That's making a lot of assumptions since it also depends on subject matter, subject movement, depth of field desired, type of lens in use and a few other points I forget at the time.
I like this setup if the subject is a person who is sitting/standing reasonably still, as I prefer shallow depth of field for portraits, particularly those taken outside.

A part-time pro photographer told me that for DOF margin of error, f/8 is normally the preferred aperture setting for portraits (he does a bunch of them, and some weddings yearly), but if I can focus properly I like it wider open.

I've shown a few people sample shots with shallow DOF, and they seem to think it's either a Photoshop manipulation or some kind of magic limited to my camera(s) - apparently aperture priority isn't a popular setting on the more automated cameras these days (at least not so the general population is aware of it).
__________________
Semper ubi sub ubi.
mabman is offline   Reply With Quote Ignore this user Ignore this thread Ignore this forum
Old 03-18-2008, 12:17 PM   #20 (permalink)
 
ic-racer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Midwest USA
Posts: 669
Default

Any exposure from 1/50 at f16 to 1/8 at f16 should work.

Why?
You said it is ISO rated so we know there is no under-exposure latitude at ISO 100. The overexposure latitude is determined by the film brand so I am assuming a reasonable 4-stop latitude for excellent prints.

Why 'Sunny 11' as the minimum exposure? With a high contrast lens, I have found that using that as the minimum exposure will give better shadow detail. If the lens is normal or low contrast, the extra exposure won't be needed. Also, you did not say the shutter was accurate, so I would not want to push the under-exposure limit.

Want more?
I can't see your scene but we know how bright the sun is. We also know that there is a 5 stop difference between black and white paint. We also know how bright the sky is (based on the 'open shade' exposure rule). This is about 4 stops less than the sun. So we can figure out in your scene there are 5 stops of range in the sunlight and this overlaps by 1 stop with an additional 5 stops of exposure range in the shadows. This gives you 9 stops. We will take one away because the lens flare etc. So, I would guess the camera will 'see' about 8 stops of luminous range on the film plane. T-max has a range about 13 stops (plus or minus a few). So that is how I came up with a latitude of about 4 stops for excellent prints. Your exposure latitude will be even greater if your scene really does not have a 9 stop range, or if you accept less than excellent prints.
ic-racer is offline   Reply With Quote Ignore this user Ignore this thread Ignore this forum
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

 


APUG.ORG Block Ads. (APUG Subscribers have the option of closing this block)
 


  Contact Us - Advertise on APUG - Archive - Top - Site Terms - Forum Rules  
    

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:50 AM.
  
All Content Copyright © 2002-2008 Photocentric Ltd.   Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO APUG.ORG is a division of Photocentric Ltd.
This site is best viewed with a resolution of 1280x1024 (or higher), we recommend using