On a forthcoming trip I've decided to break the habit of quite some time and take some colour film along with me alongside the B&W that I normally use.
Problem is, I haven't used colour for many years, and I have no idea whether I should use it at box speed, and what difference any deviation from that would make. So - any suggestions on what to set the meter to, and any difference in metering technique for colour neg that I need to be aware of?
Oh, I'll be using a CV R3A / Nokton 40/1.4 if it helps...
+1
I am also curious, although my setup will be slightly different; Hasselblad 2000FC/M and various lenses as well as a Mamiya 6. Last I heard, a lot of people like to overexpose it by 1/3-2/3, apparently it makes for easier scanning (if that's what you are in to).
Recent threads here on APUG have indicated that most people either go with box speed or 1/3 to 2/3 stops more exposure than box speed. I'm in the 1/3 to 2/3 increase group, depending on the emulsion, but don't have enough experience with the new Kodak VC emulsions.
Photo Engineer on APUG (Ron Mowrey) is a retired Kodak emulsion engineer, and recommends a bit of routine increased exposure for color negative films. I couldn't find the pertinent posts in a quick search.
I do it because it typically makes the shadows appear less grainy and more contrasty, and there's almost always enough highlight latitude to cover you with color negatives.
Recent threads here on APUG have indicated that most people either go with box speed or 1/3 to 2/3 stops more exposure than box speed. I'm in the 1/3 to 2/3 increase group, depending on the emulsion, but don't have enough experience with the new Kodak VC emulsions.
Photo Engineer on APUG (Ron Mowrey) is a retired Kodak emulsion engineer, and recommends a bit of routine increased exposure for color negative films. I couldn't find the pertinent posts in a quick search.
I do it because it typically makes the shadows appear less grainy and more contrasty, and there's almost always enough highlight latitude to cover you with color negatives.
Lee
It is also my experience that giving the film about an additional 1/3 to 2/3 increase over box speed will help shadow contrast and decrease grain. For the Portra 160 film I simply set the meter to 100.
Does anyone have any experieces scanning either of the two films 160NC and 160VC, and if so is there any difference when exposing it as a 100 or a 160 (from a scannin point of view)?
Cheers,
Anders
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Looking good But What I can't figure out is this: An overexposed neg has more density than a normally exposed or even under exposed neg. Wouldn't it get harder to scan the more density of the negative
Looking good But What I can't figure out is this: An overexposed neg has more density than a normally exposed or even under exposed neg. Wouldn't it get harder to scan the more density of the negative
Film scanners are designed to do both negatives and slides. I've scanned Kodachrome successfully. No negative highlight density that I've seen comes close to the density of shadows on slide film. In other words, the density range of color negative dyes is no challenge for any decent scanner.
For professional films like these I use box speed or 1/3 stop over exposure. I have exposed the 160 VC and NC from ISO 25 to 400 and the 400 film from 100 to 800. The VC results are posted here somewhere. ISO 100 is good for the 160 film and 300 is good for the 400 film.
Exposure of Kodak 160VC and 400VC 
But What I can't figure out is this: An overexposed neg has more density than a normally exposed or even under exposed neg. Wouldn't it get harder to scan the more density of the negative 
Linear Mode
