Quote:
Originally Posted by jeroldharter  I determine exposure by squinting with my left eye while counting backwards from ten and then base the calculation on 30 years of arcane experience that I will not share with you. |
When I'm out with my Zorki I use much the same technique - I can't help thinking you're missing a trick by not using your right eye though; using your left eye is just a bourgeois affectation that none of the greats would have entertained.
Quote:
|
Sounds like the calibration function of the new meter is of limited usefulness. Does the readout on the inside show a dot or graph for a sequence of EV readings?
|
The 'through the viewfinder' display is relatively simple, and just displays the most recent reading (and the shutter speed.) Like the main display, you can switch between EVs and f/stops at will.
The main display on the meter though shows a horizontal range of stops from -7 to +7; the calibrated midtone of your film is 0 (indicated by a small pip,) and then two pips either side mark the limits of the film's characteristic curve as determined by the calibration (i.e. there are pips at start of toe/end of toe/midtone/start of shoulder/end of shoulder.)
(If you've not done the calibration, the default positions are something like: -3-and-a-bit, -2-and-a-bit, 0, +2-and-a-bit, +3-and-a-bit)
Each successive reading you take (assuming you press the 'memory' button) is shown above this line as a solid black mark. A button-push switches between telling the meter to assume the first readying you took is the desired midtone (i.e. the first reading you take is 0 and all other readings fall either side of this,) and using a computed average of all readings (i.e. 0 is the average of readings you've taken - the average is shown as a flickering rather than solid mark - and the readings you've taken fall around the average as appropriate.)
(When I say 'first reading' that's just the default; if you hold down the 'Mid Tone' button and then move the dial, you can select any of the readings you've taken to be the notional midtone.)
You can also switch the display to f/stops, but personally I prefer to leave it in the EV mode described as I'm more interested in the range of exposure values than the absolute numbers - if you switch the scale to f/stops then obviously the whole construction moves up and down the scale as you change shutter speed.
It's a lot more complicated to explain than it is to use, but it's genuinely bloody useful. The calibration function is obviously less useful - and to be honest for B&W or colour negative photography probably a waste of time. If I ever get my hands on the target though, I can see value in it for calibrating the meter to various slide films (which is what I mostly shoot.)
Linear Mode
