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  1. #11
    Sirius Glass's Avatar
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    I gotta add MLU to my LOAA! :o

    Steve
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by keithwms View Post
    Regarding MLU (here we go yet again).... sure it matters, in some situations. If the exposure is very long then MLU won't matter one iota.
    That's the thing.

    When long becomes "very long" is meassured against the duration of the shake a mirror would induce. And that is about 30 ms - 50 ms.

    Which, set against exposures of seconds, or minutes, is nothing at all.

    Quote Originally Posted by keithwms View Post
    Anyway let's not let this [frequently recurring] MLU thing derail a thread.
    Agreed.
    But it has come up, and should be dealt with adequately.

  3. #13
    keithwms's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Q.G. View Post
    But it has come up, and should be dealt with adequately.
    Agreed
    "Only dead fish follow the stream"

    [APUG Portfolio] [APUG Blog] [Website]

  4. #14
    Paul Sorensen's Avatar
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    I do not meter either, most of my night exposures are in the range of two to twenty minutes, so I don't worry about mirror shake, or much of anything more than having a very stout tripod. I am working on a new formula for developing, but what I have done in the past was using Tmax 100 and very dilute D76. (I seem to remember 1:4, but it has been a long time) Basically I just had a list of exposures, and a development scheme that involved a great deal of pulling, and went for it. The exposures are long enough that the shadows get exposed and the highlights don't blow out as bad.

    The trick with Tmax is that the reciprocity characteristics are so much better than traditional films, it can save you at least a stop or two on very long exposures. I am going to work on Acros since it apparently has a little better reciprocity to see how it works as well.

    Here are a couple of examples, excuse the cheesy scanning, that is not one of my strong points:



  5. #15
    jd callow's Avatar
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    I meter. I generally take 2 -3 frames of a subject and all are generally very printable. I test film so I can understand when it will begin to suffer reciprocity failure and how fast it will fail. I use apertures and camera's that I like in general. Although some lenses may be better at night most cameras will be fine and the aperture is subject dependent not time of day. I rely upon a hand held meter sensitive enough for low light for exposure info. I use a Luna Pro SBC (but a sensitive spot meter would be better) and try to place what I'd like to be in the shot within a 5 stop range. I may be as capable as some posting here, but I cannot imagine having any real success without metering. Some of my night shots can be viewed in the APUG gallery if you would like any evidence of the success or failure of my system.

    *

  6. #16
    Paul Sorensen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jd callow View Post
    ...I cannot imagine having any real success without metering.
    I guess I can't imagine doing color without metering either, but this system has worked so well for B&W that I have never wanted to meter with that. I can really see, however, that some of the types of things that tend to cause me trouble, scenes with just moon lighting, neon, especially dark scenes, would be easier to manage with metering. For a more "normal" street light lit city scene, the variations are surprisingly little. The issue for me is that it would open a film testing can of worms that I am not in the mood to open right now.

    I certainly can vouch for the amazing work you do, however, since I have a couple here in my house!

  7. #17

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    I should have clarified, that for black and white work I do not find that I need a meter. If I was shooting colour, and especially transparencies, then I would certainly meter.

  8. #18
    Sirius Glass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Solarize View Post
    I should have clarified, that for black and white work I do not find that I need a meter. If I was shooting colour, and especially transparencies, then I would certainly meter.
    Even with transparencies one does not need a meter. See my earlier post discussing the Jiffy Calculator. I took many transparencies with it and rarely needed to bracket the photograph. Why make life hard and spend money on an expensive light meter for night photography when the Jiffy Calculator will provide the proper exposure or very close to it?

    Try it; it will not cost much to print it out and you will be pleased with it. Take this post siriusly!

    Steve
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

  9. #19

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    Interesting post as I also do some night photography.

  10. #20
    Wade D's Avatar
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    Call me old fashioned but I use a slide rule guide that I found in Popular Photography in the early 70's. It lists a bunch of lighting conditions as well as ASA (now ISO) film speeds and recommends shutter speeds and F stops. Good starting points and with bracketing it works well. Oops now I've given away my age LOL.

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