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  1. #21
    Sirius Glass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wade D View Post
    Call me old fashioned but I use a slide rule guide that I found in Popular Photography in the early 70's. It lists a bunch of lighting conditions as well as ASA (now ISO) film speeds and recommends shutter speeds and F stops. Good starting points and with bracketing it works well. Oops now I've given away my age LOL.
    That is the same one I use and I posted earlier. You are obviously a wise skilled photographer with very good taste and experience.

    Steve
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

  2. #22
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    To the OP: IMO, you will do well with an exposure chart, bracketing, a film with good reciprocity maintenance, and plenty of trial and error.

    I might start with T-Max 100 or Neopan 100 for black and white. For color, I'd start with Fuji T64 half or quarter rated and pulled one or two stops to match, or Provia 100F or Astia 100F, similarly rated and developed. You can also cross process the transparency films if you want. (Try them processed -1/2, or -1 if you don't mind a little wonkiness of color.) These films are all excellent in the reciprocity department. T64 will probably give the most "normal" color.

    If you feel like tracking down discontinued films, look for Fuji NPL and/or Portra 100T.

    You can get night photography exposure charts from various sources, like old photography pocket guides and student textbooks.
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

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  3. #23

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    "Low Light and Night Photography" by Roger Hicks is well worth getting hold of.
    Roger used to post on APUG regularly and often came up with good information and contributions to discussions but I've not seen anything from him for a year or more.
    Is he/are you still out there?

    Steve

  4. #24
    Sirius Glass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Roberts View Post
    "Low Light and Night Photography" by Roger Hicks is well worth getting hold of.
    Roger used to post on APUG regularly and often came up with good information and contributions to discussions but I've not seen anything from him for a year or more.
    Is he/are you still out there?

    Steve
    Yes Roger is working on his own projects and has not been on APUG for quite a while for various reasons.

    Steve
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

  5. #25

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    A lot of good advice so far, but may I add, take a torch, a book, insect repellent, and even, if it's not to far or hard to carry, a folding chair. An acquaintance of mine who does a lot of night photography claims these are necessaries, not luxuries.

    The torch is very handy for checking settings and reading the book. I would also add a lens hood to help control flare, unless that is something you are looking for and a back lit timer for long bulb settings if your watch is hard to read or you don't want to use the torch near your camera. Another thing that might help is hanging a heavy weight from the center of your tripod (I use a water bladder, which is easy to fill and empty, on a short rope, others large rocks, or a bag they can add dirt to) to help stabilise the tripod. Also, remember food and drink, you may be out there for a while.

  6. #26

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    Paul, I like your crane shot.

  7. #27
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    Any tips for shooting a full moon (at night) with a large format camera? I'll be using either HP5+ or TMax 400, I forget which I have loaded at this moment. The full moon is tonight and we might actually have clear skies.

    I should clarify a bit. I will be in a conservation park which has no lighting other than natural light. It would be nice to get the moon such that it is not a blur in the sky. Is this possible at all under these conditions? I did some test shots with 8x10 Acros last week and had moon blur at 2 min.

    I would also like to shoot the landscape under the moon (moon not in the shot, but acting as the reflecting light source). Has anyone shot moonlit landscapes away from city lights?
    Last edited by colrehogan; 08-06-2009 at 11:20 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    Diane

    Halak 41

  8. #28

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    The full moon itself?
    Just remember that on the side of the moon facing us, it isn't night tonight, but bright, sun-lit day.
    So go out today while the sun is still shining, and get a reading for a bright, sun-lit day.

  9. #29

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    If you have light sources in your image and want to get that nice starburst pattern that shows up in Paul's photos, stop down to f11-f16 (may vary depending on your lens).

    Dan

  10. #30
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    Q.G. that's all well and good if we didn't have an atmosphere and if the moon didn't have phases. This question comes up quite often and, without fail, somebody implies that it's always as simple as sunny 16 on terra firma. That's true only when it's true!

    Diane, to shoot the moon, just try to short-suit yourself if possible by passing the right cards Oh and spot meter and you will nail it. Remember that for tight crops you need exposures of ~1/320 sec if you want detail in the moon (there will be motion blur otherwise). For loose crops in which the moon is just a smallish part of a landscape then you can get by with much much slower exposures, maybe even 1/60.

    To shoot a moonlit landscape, again, why not just meter. Sometimes you will be able to wing it with luny-11 (f/11, 1/ISO)... but sometimes not. Depends how much shadow detail you want, of course!

    There is no simple formula; if there were, the photograph probably wouldn't be worth taking.
    "Only dead fish follow the stream"

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