Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 69,873   Posts: 1,520,141   Online: 906
      
Page 1 of 5 12345 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 47
  1. #1

    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Belgium
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,095
    Images
    270

    Which Zone for a White Shutters in sunlight?

    I have a white door which I photograph in sunlight for testing my development times. My problem is that I don't know if it should fall on VII or VIII. It currently seems to fall on Zone VII for my development times.

    Appreciate any views...Rgds, Kal
    Kal Khogali

    www.kal-khogali.com


    Visit my Photo Scrap Book

    www.shutteringeye.wordpress.com


    "Wake up, dream, and photograph what you have seen.
    Don't wake up, photograph, and dream of what could have been."

  2. #2
    Ian Grant's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    West Midlands, UK, and Turkey
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    16,185
    Images
    148
    It really depends on how much detail you want in that white, but it should most probably be on Zone VIII.

    Ian

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Belgium
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,095
    Images
    270
    That is what I was thinking too Ian. There isn't much detail in the door, but I can see some of the paint strokes in the scan, and I imagine I would lose most of it but not all with another stop. I will add 10% next time and see what I get. Thanks for the advice. Rgds, Kal
    Kal Khogali

    www.kal-khogali.com


    Visit my Photo Scrap Book

    www.shutteringeye.wordpress.com


    "Wake up, dream, and photograph what you have seen.
    Don't wake up, photograph, and dream of what could have been."

  4. #4
    2F/2F's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    8,008
    Images
    4
    What is your testing procedure?

    Do you meter the white, and place it on zone VIII? Do you meter it and place it on zone VII?

    The key is not what zone it "is", but whether or not it prints where you tell it to land after normal printing. Zones do not exist in real life; only on prints.

    So, assuming you are testing for a normal developing time, if you placed it on zone VIII, it should print to a zone VIII with normal printing. If you placed it on a zone VIII, and it is printing to a zone VII with normal printing, then yes, you should try again with some more time. If you placed it on a zone VII, and it landed on a zone VII, you are good, though it means your developing times are calibrated to zone VII instead of zone VIII.
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

    - Rob Tyner (1944 - 1991)

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Belgium
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,095
    Images
    270
    Thanks 2F I think you are spot on. I tested by metering off the door and then setting it to zone VII, and it came out zone VII with my normal development. I am not sure if I should place it at VIII I guess is my question, and whether that would provide the "better" print tonally. I need to print it at VII and see...I will be doing that tonight, but I need to compare it to what it would look like at VIII...

    In summary, what I think you are saying is that I should just expose to place it at VIII and develop normally...right?

    Rgds, Kal
    Kal Khogali

    www.kal-khogali.com


    Visit my Photo Scrap Book

    www.shutteringeye.wordpress.com


    "Wake up, dream, and photograph what you have seen.
    Don't wake up, photograph, and dream of what could have been."

  6. #6
    eddym's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Puerto Rico
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,927
    Images
    26
    You should place it on whatever zone you think it belongs, to suit your own interpretation of the scene.
    Eddy McDonald
    www.fotoartes.com
    Eschew defenestration!

  7. #7
    2F/2F's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    8,008
    Images
    4
    You are probably pretty well calibrated by using zone VII as a target.

    However, the zone system method explained in the '80s rewrites of the Adams trilogy mentions that he used to calibrate to a zone V, but abandoned the practice at some point in favor of calibrating to zone VIII.

    Just remember that the entire thing is designed to give you want you want, not that which "is right". The whole thing is pointless unless it serves as a tool to achieve your vision. It should be that, and nothing else. The idea of the image comes first. The tool serves the image; not the other way around.

    Also: nothing "is" a zone until it is on a print! Speaking of the real world as "being" in zones is a conceptual error; perhaps the worst one you can make with the zone system. You are taking the real world and making it into tonal zones on a print. That is the point of it: to give you fine control of that act. The term does not apply to anything except prints. The entire process has to work backward from the print to make any sense at all.
    Last edited by 2F/2F; 07-31-2009 at 07:00 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

    - Rob Tyner (1944 - 1991)

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Belgium
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,095
    Images
    270
    Thanks guys...this is making alot more sense now! Rgds, Kal
    Kal Khogali

    www.kal-khogali.com


    Visit my Photo Scrap Book

    www.shutteringeye.wordpress.com


    "Wake up, dream, and photograph what you have seen.
    Don't wake up, photograph, and dream of what could have been."

  9. #9
    Christopher Walrath's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Milton, DE, USA
    Shooter
    4x5 Format
    Posts
    6,980
    Blog Entries
    29
    Images
    19
    Wirelessly posted (BBBold: BlackBerry9000/4.6.0.167 Profile/MIDP-2.0 Configuration/CLDC-1.1 VendorID/102 UP.Link/6.3.0.0.0)

    Just asking. Wouldn't be simpler to expose for zone V and compare to a gray card?
    Thank you.
    CWalrath
    APUG BLIND PRINT EXCHANGE
    DE Darkroom

    "Wubba, wubba, wubba. Bing, bang, bong. Yuck, yuck, yuck and a fiddle-dee-dee." - The Yeti

  10. #10

    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Belgium
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,095
    Images
    270
    Christopher, if I did that I would have no control of where the hilight zone VII would fall on the print, which in this case is what I am after....I need to know what my development is calibrated to, and to do that for the hilights, I need to set the zone for the hilight and develop normally and see where it lands on the print...I think . K
    Kal Khogali

    www.kal-khogali.com


    Visit my Photo Scrap Book

    www.shutteringeye.wordpress.com


    "Wake up, dream, and photograph what you have seen.
    Don't wake up, photograph, and dream of what could have been."

Page 1 of 5 12345 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin