Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 68,699   Posts: 1,482,605   Online: 803
      
Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 23
  1. #1

    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    5,231
    Images
    9

    Advice on exposing in a mechanic's shop

    In reality there is a lot of light. Flat light from translucent (sp) sky-lights and Two really big bay doors on the eastern side of the shop

    The times I have to shoot are in the afternoon, so the Bay doors are on the shady side.

    Basically the light is bright but extremely even.

    This is kind of an important project for me and I don't want flat lifelss images.

    Any advice would be helpful.

    PS-Images will be black and white as well as color.
    Technological society has succeeded in multiplying the opportunities for pleasure, but it has great difficulty in generating joy. Pope Paul VI

    So, I think the "greats" were true to their visions, once their visions no longer sucked. Ralph Barker 12/2004

  2. #2
    mrred's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Montreal, Canada
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    634
    Images
    4
    Your choices are to increase contrast by creating shadows and / or control the light with brighter light.

  3. #3
    Sirius Glass's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Southern California & Virginia
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    12,635
    Use a spot meter to find the SBR [from darkest shadow of interest to brightest area]. Use the reading to determine the camera settings.

    Steve
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

  4. #4
    eddym's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Puerto Rico
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,927
    Images
    26
    The light may look flat, but I'll wager there will be some dark shadows somewhere. Only you can decide if they are important enough to render detail in them. Steve's advice is good; check the range of tones with a spot meter, and process your B&W film to match. You will also then know if you need to shoot a "normal" or a "vivid" color film. Kodak Portra NC and VC are the best examples.
    Eddy McDonald
    www.fotoartes.com
    Eschew defenestration!

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Ottawa, Canada
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    419
    If you can't use additional light to control the scene, check the SBR and overdevelop if you don't have enough contrast. If you can, do a quick test a few days before the main shoot.
    "The beauty and profundity of God is more real than any mere calculation"

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    South East Middle Tennessee
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    262
    Good advise. Bracket if you can. I know film is not cheap but neither is you time nor reputation for a re-shoot. Whenever I had a shoot at a location where I couldn't modify the light I always bracketed 1-2 stops over and under, yes, it is a waste but at least I got a useable photo and that is what they where paying me for.

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    15,260
    Blog Entries
    2
    Images
    2
    hi mark

    i have done similar things ..
    what i usually do is ..
    go the a spot with bright sun and shadow
    put your light meter with the globe towards your camera.
    get a reading for the light, and then for the shadow
    average them ... and over expose by at least 1 fstop and bracket.
    do some bracketed exposures after flashing your film too and use a compensating developer ..

    have fun!
    john

  8. #8
    lilmsmaggie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    325
    Hi,

    I'm a newbie taking a beginning B&W photography class. This "SBR" thingy is interesting. I've wondered recently about properly exposing for good tonal range, especially after a recent shoot. My next assignment involves shallow DOF, but I'm trying to understand how I should meter a scene/subject using the camera's meter to obtain a properly exposed negative that is neither too light or too dark and would render a good print.

    In the past, I've just pointed the camera at the subject/scene and used the camera's meter to determine overall exposure and not exactly considering tonal ranges. But as I mentioned above, the last shoot got me to thinking if I was metering the subject/scene properly. That's why I'm interested in this "SBR" topic. I have a feeling I'm doing something wrong. I've heard: "Expose for the shadows, process for highlights," but not quite sure what that really means.

    Does my statement/question make sense?

  9. #9

    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Netherlands
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    5,686
    Knowing the brightness range helps knowing the brightness range.
    Very often, that means that you know what will disappear into darkness and/or what will be leached by overexposure.
    You can only do something about that by asjustingboth exposure and processing. Exposure should suffice for the shadow details to register. Processing should be short enough that the highlights don't block up That's what that old, but very valid adage is about.

    Metering the scene to get the most important bit of it (your subject) exposed properly is the most important bit though.
    You do not necessarily also need to capture all detail on the extreme ends of the range as well to create a good image. And every often, you don't want to capture a large brightness range.

    But if you do (or if you want to decrease the range - which alsohappens), some playing around, testing different exposures and processing options to see how they affect contrast will be needed.
    I really hate to, but at this time giving the Zone System a mention is not inappropriate. It, despite the misplaced cult following it has, is a great teaching tool.

  10. #10
    Sirius Glass's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Southern California & Virginia
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    12,635
    Quote Originally Posted by lilmsmaggie View Post
    Does my statement/question make sense?
    Start with post #3 on this thread. You don't have a spot meter, then go up closely and meter the darkest shadow detail you want and the brightest area and take a reading.

    For example, I was at Yosemite taking a photo of Half Dome just after a snow storm. The sky was bright with scattered clouds. There was snow on Half Dome that was a slightly darker tone than the clouds. I used the spot meter on my Nikon f100 and the zoom lens at 300mm [I was NOT going to walk up to the top of Half Dome, but you get the concept], then I took a spot reading of the shadow detail in the densely packed trees. Finally I took a overall reading. It was an SBR of 12 stops. I then adjusted the camera to between the two readings and compared it to the overall reading. If it is close I use the calculated reading, otherwise I take two photographs one using the calculated reading and the other the overall reading. The film captured the SBR without the brights blowing out. The problem was printing it on paper that can at best cover seven stops. That took burning, dodging, and bleaching. You will get into that later.

    I use the box speed of Tri-X 400 and XTOL undiluted for the normal time and temperature. I do not compensate with N-2, N-1, N, N+1, N+2 with roll film. If I ever go back to sheet film I would use N-2, N-1, N, N+1, N+2 because I can handle each photograph separately and because of the cost of the film.

    Steve
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin