thanks for the clarification.
Originally Posted by MikeSeb
They are there for accuracy, i.e., for picky people like me, who use fractions of f-stops.
Originally Posted by Rinthe
For example, let's say I'm out shooting flowers on a roll of Ilford Delta 100 and so is my friend, Bob. Bob rates his Ilford Delta 100 normally, at E.I. 100. However, I prefer to rate mine at E.I. 160 which is 2/3 of a stop higher than E.I. 100 (or approximately 6/10 of a stop higher, which is the way the meter understands it).
With the L-358 set at ISO 100, Bob meters the light falling upon a flower, and the meter provides an incident reading of 1/125th @ F/5.6. But because I rate my film at E.I. 160, I could not use that reading because the meter is set for ISO/E.I. 100. Instead of using F/5.6, I would "close down" the aperture 2/3 of a stop to F/7.1.
If I move the meter's "ISO 1" dial from 100 to 160, the meter will read "F/5.6 & (6/10)" (because we have added 6/10 of a stop to F/5.6) which is F/7.1.
Let's say that another friend, Carol, joins us. And let's say she rates her film at E.I. 125. In relationship, she rates her film 1/3 higher than Bob but 1/3 lower than me. If we set the meter's "ISO 1" dial to 125, the aperture reading will change to "F/5.6 & (3/10)" which is F/6.3.
From memory, here are some approximate equivalents:
F-STOP = SEKONIC READING
F/2.0 = F/2.0
F/2.2 = F/2.0 & (3/10)
F/2.5 = F/2.0 & (6/10)
F/2.8 = F/2.8
F/3.2 = F/2.8 & (3/10)
F/3.5 = F/2.8 & (6/10)
F/4.0 = F/4.0
F/4.5 = F/4.0 & (3/10)
F/5.0 = F/4.0 & (6/10)
F/5.6 = F/5.6
F/6.3 = F/5.6 & (3/10)
F/7.1 = F/5.6 & (6/10)
F/8.0 = F/8.0
F/9.0 = F/8.0 & (3/10)
F/10.0 = F/8.0 & (6/10)
F/11.0 = F/11.0
F/13.0 = F/11.0 & (3/10)
F/14.0 = F/11.0 & (6/10)
F/16.0 = F/16.0
F/18.0 = F/16.0 & (3/10)
F/20.0 = F/16.0 & (6/10)
... and so on!
thank you brandon for the detailed explanation, i think i'm starting to understand this. but not all cameras have 1/3 stops right? i have a canon ae-1 and it looks like i only get 1/2 stops. Also, theres a switch on the back of l-358 that i can turn on to make it display 1/3 stops. so it'll display, 4.5, 5, 5.6, 7.1 etc.. i guess the 1/10 is for even more precision? maybe sometimes it'll show 1/10 or 2/10? sorry if these are stupid questions, im a newbie
Some one asked about the 358in general. I have the 358 and the newer 558 [558??] In my mind the only reason to buy the 358 instead of the 558 is if you are SURE you'll never need a spot meter. he mentioned 1degree adapter for the 358 adds a fair bit of cost to the 358. I don't see the point with the release of the 558. The 358 OTOH is great if you don't need a spot meter.
The L358 plus the spot attachment if bought new is much cheaper than the L558 or 758, and if Rinthe only paid $50 for a meter that costs about six times that new, since he/she ? is a newbie, and probably wouldn't know what to do with a spot meter anyway, this was a great buy.
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yeah i can get the 1" lumigrid if i want to use a spot meter, but incident metering is good enough for now
Ritthe the Lumigrid is the general reflected light reading attachment that should come with the L358 not the spot attachment, check the instruction book.
In fact MOST cameras do not have 1/3 stop indcators.
Originally Posted by Rinthe
1/10 stop change is nice if you're marketing a meter but most people can't use it anyway since neither your shutter or lens is calibrated to use it. Any use of 1/10 is by gosh and by golly or wishful thinking. To explain it a little more easily(?) if the indicated reading is Xsec@f2.2 you're just opening the lens on the camera to f2 & a little bit.
I use mine a great deal with studio strobes and as Mike Seb wrote many of the modern ones have the ability to adjust the light output in 1/10 of a stop increments, and since the light several flashes is cumulative it enables precise exposure setting. The full title of the meter is the Sekonic L -358 Flash Master , and I find it to be one of the best flasmeters i've ever used.
Originally Posted by John Koehrer
Last edited by benjiboy; 09-08-2009 at 02:45 PM. Click to view previous post history.
Most newer cameras (in the past 10 years or so) do have 1/3 stop increment for both shutter speed and aperture.