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  1. #11
    markbarendt's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Beaverton, OR, USA
    Multi Format
    Blog Entries
    Quote Originally Posted by Galah View Post
    What I understand you are meant to do is: Take a (reflected light) reading off your white card and then multiply your exposure by five.

    The most accurate way to do this is to multiply your shutter time by five: ie, if the reading suggests f/2 @ 1/8th, you should give it f/2 @ 5 x 1/8th, or f/2 @ 5/8ths (the nearest being 1/2 sec?).
    This is a generic of a rule of thumb for placing white on the curve about 2 stops up from middle gray.

    This may be a very accurate guesstimate for Galah's purposes but the accuracy is dependent on the film in use, the scene, the subject, the style, and the intent.

    Example; I did an event at a ski resort, the start of a race course, a few weeks back the participant's faces were in open shade, the snow around them was in full sun, there was a dark evergreen forest behind them.

    The faces of the people were in a low contrast setting, the rest of the scene is high contrast.

    In a situation like this you have to decide what is most important to you and which method/tool for metering will work best.

    A white card two stops up may have led me astray in that situation.

    There is no substitute for experimenting for yourself.
    Mark Barendt, Beaverton, OR

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin

  2. #12

    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Medium Format
    How much to correct when using the white face of the card instead of the grey is easily determined by measuring both to see the difference.
    If you use that compensation when using the white side, you will always get the exact same result you would have gotten using the other, grey side.

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