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  1. #11
    Sirius Glass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry_K View Post
    Occasionally I shoot 35mm Tmax and Velvia with my Nikon F5 almost always in matrix metering mode. Well, to refer to 2F/2F's quote, now that's one and only true God. I have yet to find a lighting condition when it gives a bad advice. Unfortunately F5 is to big and heavy to be a reference whole-scene kind of meter
    I use my Nikon F100 with a 28mm to 30mm zoom lenses sometimes as a spot meter for my Hasselblad. Since you already have an F-5, I think you can connect the dots and save the money for another lens for your Pentax 67ii.

    Just an idea.

    Steve
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sirius Glass View Post
    I use my Nikon F100 with a 28mm to 30mm zoom lenses sometimes as a spot meter for my Hasselblad. Since you already have an F-5, I think you can connect the dots and save the money for another lens for your Pentax 67ii.
    Darn, too bad I already have all the lenses for P67ii! :-)

    The other reason of my consideration for spotmeter is my intent to learn and master the Zone System and apply it creatively in pursue of photography with artistic ambitions, and to that end I definitely have to know what I'm doing and why. It also means setting exposures that are not necessarily correct according to "smart" in-camera meters.

    Jerry.

  3. #13
    naeroscatu's Avatar
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    I endorse the Soligor analog spotmeter as the cheapest and very reliable. I don't go out without it. Yes, it does look like a gun so be careful where you point that thing.
    Mihai Costea

    "There's more to the picture
    Than meets the eye." - Neil Young

    Galleries:My PN & My APUG

  4. #14
    DanielStone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry_K View Post
    ....
    The other reason of my consideration for spotmeter is my intent to learn and master the Zone System and apply it creatively in pursue of photography with artistic ambitions
    Jerry.
    Jerry,

    to be quite frank, the only way that the zone system can really be used with roll film(that I've found to be consistent) is to expose the WHOLE roll the EXACT same(contrast-wise). Because the zone system utilizes contraction and expansion of contrast to achieve the desired effect, to accurately predict and develop your negatives on your roll of film, they would have to be the same.

    so if you're ALWAYS shooting under the exact conditions, or in a setting where you can manipulate your major sources of illumination, then you can accurately and confidently shoot zone system with rollfilm, 35mm or 120/220.

    this is why the Z.S. was developed with sheet film use in mind, albeit much of its creators(Ansel Adams) usage of it was with a Hasselblad with rollfilm .

    Personally, after using my friends L-758DR meter the other day, which has everything that a meter possibly could(spot, ambient, flash reading, etc...) all for liek $550, if I had to get a new meter, I'd just go with that rather than having my two sekonic's(a L-358 and L-778 spot)

    just my $.02

    -Dan

  5. #15
    mablo's Avatar
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    One option could be - although not precisely a spot meter but quite close - a Russian Sverdlovsk-4 CDS meter. It is of a size of a normal light meter so you avoid carrying a "hand gun" like Pentax and others. Costs $30-40 and can be calibrated easily by self.

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by DanielStone View Post
    this is why the Z.S. was developed with sheet film use in mind, albeit much of its creators(Ansel Adams) usage of it was with a Hasselblad with rollfilm .
    If you expose enough film in a day, you don't need single sheets. Roll film will do.
    But you need to be able to switch from one film to another.
    Adams carried 5 magazines. Four loaded with two different films, in two pairs of magazines. Each of a pair to be exposed and processed differently.
    The fifth as a spare.

  7. #17
    DanielStone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Q.G. View Post
    But you need to be able to switch from one film to another.
    but what I was referring to was this: if you shoot a photograph of some sunny vista, say, you have a -1/2 situation for development. But since you only have 1 back loaded with b/w, going and shooting a portrait of someone in open shade(generally a N+ situation), printing will be made more difficult in the long run, if not impossible, even with split grade printing.

    carrying multiple backs(one for each development, N-2 -->N+2), so 5 backs. That's just plain heavy, Ansel Adams or Arnold Schwarzenegger. Carrying a few film holders and a lightweight 4x5 camera might be a better solution(IMO).

    -Dan

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by DanielStone View Post
    but what I was referring to was this: if you shoot a photograph of some sunny vista, say, you have a -1/2 situation for development. But since you only have 1 back loaded with b/w, going and shooting a portrait of someone in open shade(generally a N+ situation), printing will be made more difficult in the long run, if not impossible, even with split grade printing.

    carrying multiple backs(one for each development, N-2 -->N+2), so 5 backs. That's just plain heavy, Ansel Adams or Arnold Schwarzenegger. Carrying a few film holders and a lightweight 4x5 camera might be a better solution(IMO).

    -Dan
    Yes. That would be a consideration.
    Whether 5 film backs and a MF kit would be heavier than a lightweight 4x5 with film holders is debatable. But it would not be the only thing to consider, of course.

    The point however was that you can, as the inventor of it did, 'do' ZS using roll film.

    Depending on what you are going to shoot, you may not actually need more than two, or even one back. But if you will have to expect to come across widely varying scenes, you will. Also something to consider.

  9. #19
    Ken N's Avatar
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    Hmm. I shoot primarily 35mm. Time for me to get a few more OM bodies. I need at least five for each type of B&W film I'm shooting, plus one for the color slide film.

    Maybe I'll just stick with standard development.
    http://www.zone-10.com

    When you turn your camera on, does it return the favor?

  10. #20

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    No, no.
    Adams chose one film for high contrast, one film for low contrast situations. Each in a normal, and a N+1 or N-1 variant.
    So two films, in two exposure/processing variants.

    That to cover (almost) everything he could come across.
    Anticipate what you can come across, and one film, perhaps even in one exposure/processing variant might do. At most two.
    So take one film, your OM4 and OM3, and you're fine.

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