Darn, too bad I already have all the lenses for P67ii! :-)
Originally Posted by Sirius Glass
The other reason of my consideration for spotmeter is my intent to learn and master the Zone System and apply it creatively in pursue of photography with artistic ambitions, and to that end I definitely have to know what I'm doing and why. It also means setting exposures that are not necessarily correct according to "smart" in-camera meters.
I endorse the Soligor analog spotmeter as the cheapest and very reliable. I don't go out without it. Yes, it does look like a gun so be careful where you point that thing.
"There's more to the picture
Than meets the eye." - Neil Young
& My APUG
Originally Posted by Jerry_K
to be quite frank, the only way that the zone system can really be used with roll film(that I've found to be consistent) is to expose the WHOLE roll the EXACT same(contrast-wise). Because the zone system utilizes contraction and expansion of contrast to achieve the desired effect, to accurately predict and develop your negatives on your roll of film, they would have to be the same.
so if you're ALWAYS shooting under the exact conditions, or in a setting where you can manipulate your major sources of illumination, then you can accurately and confidently shoot zone system with rollfilm, 35mm or 120/220.
this is why the Z.S. was developed with sheet film use in mind, albeit much of its creators(Ansel Adams) usage of it was with a Hasselblad with rollfilm .
Personally, after using my friends L-758DR meter the other day, which has everything that a meter possibly could(spot, ambient, flash reading, etc...) all for liek $550, if I had to get a new meter, I'd just go with that rather than having my two sekonic's(a L-358 and L-778 spot)
just my $.02
One option could be - although not precisely a spot meter but quite close - a Russian Sverdlovsk-4 CDS meter. It is of a size of a normal light meter so you avoid carrying a "hand gun" like Pentax and others. Costs $30-40 and can be calibrated easily by self.
If you expose enough film in a day, you don't need single sheets. Roll film will do.
Originally Posted by DanielStone
But you need to be able to switch from one film to another.
Adams carried 5 magazines. Four loaded with two different films, in two pairs of magazines. Each of a pair to be exposed and processed differently.
The fifth as a spare.
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but what I was referring to was this: if you shoot a photograph of some sunny vista, say, you have a -1/2 situation for development. But since you only have 1 back loaded with b/w, going and shooting a portrait of someone in open shade(generally a N+ situation), printing will be made more difficult in the long run, if not impossible, even with split grade printing.
Originally Posted by Q.G.
carrying multiple backs(one for each development, N-2 -->N+2), so 5 backs. That's just plain heavy, Ansel Adams or Arnold Schwarzenegger. Carrying a few film holders and a lightweight 4x5 camera might be a better solution(IMO).
Yes. That would be a consideration.
Originally Posted by DanielStone
Whether 5 film backs and a MF kit would be heavier than a lightweight 4x5 with film holders is debatable. But it would not be the only thing to consider, of course.
The point however was that you can, as the inventor of it did, 'do' ZS using roll film.
Depending on what you are going to shoot, you may not actually need more than two, or even one back. But if you will have to expect to come across widely varying scenes, you will. Also something to consider.
Hmm. I shoot primarily 35mm. Time for me to get a few more OM bodies. I need at least five for each type of B&W film I'm shooting, plus one for the color slide film.
Maybe I'll just stick with standard development.
Adams chose one film for high contrast, one film for low contrast situations. Each in a normal, and a N+1 or N-1 variant.
So two films, in two exposure/processing variants.
That to cover (almost) everything he could come across.
Anticipate what you can come across, and one film, perhaps even in one exposure/processing variant might do. At most two.
So take one film, your OM4 and OM3, and you're fine.
Spot meters are very useful tools in the hands of someone who has a good understanding of the principals of exposure, in the hands of a beginner they are not a universal panacea as many of them think they are, but can produce much worse exposures than an ordinary reflected/incidental light meter.