B&W contrast filter - using yellow all the time

[tkamiya]

Thank you everybody. I guess it's not a crazy idea after all..... I'm going to keep that as my "standard" for a while. So far, I like the results. Much better match to what I'd expect than without.

[RalphLambrecht]

Anon Ymous

You beat me to it. Yes, the Ilford graphs were done with a tungsten light source which explains the lack of blue exposure.

[RalphLambrecht]

... I'd like to see a similar graph with a Wratten #11 filter. I've always liked it as a "general-purpose" landscape pix filter. Seems to act like a light yellow filter, but seems to alter greens a tiny bit more. ...

I have the data to prepare that graph. Just need to exchange the filter data. I'll get back to you.

[RalphLambrecht]

2F/2F

Here you go: This is the raw data with yellow(Y8) and green(G11) filter.

[2F/2F]

Interesting, Ralph. The #11 more closely and smoothly matches the shape of human vision in the graph. I never knew! Thanks again. More good information. (How do you do that, anyhow? )

[RalphLambrecht]

... How do you do that, anyhow?

By multiplying the spectral sensitivity data of all individual components (light source, filter, lens, film).

[Mick Fagan]

My Horizon panoramic camera came with some clip in filters, one of which is a yellow green filter. The others were a ND filter and a red filter, this was 1994.

The success of the yellow green filter made me purchase a yellow green filter for general-purpose photography. I hardly ever use either a yellow or a green filter on it's own.

Generally though I have found with current FP4+ and HP5+, the yellow green is best, with older TMax (1989 vintage) the yellow alone seems best.

All observations by trial and error on my part and B&W prints used for evaluation.

If I wish for a contrast kick, or to lighten brickwork, I switch to an orange.

Mick.