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  1. #21

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    Thanks Matt for the quick response. So lets say i meter for ISO 100 and i am using a iso 20 film i need to open up 2 1/3 stop of light. Lets say i have metered it at a shutter speed of 1/500 and on my leica M3 there is only a click between 1/125 and 1/60. So practically speaking i can only open up 2 1/2 stop which would be fine and that would be between 1/125 and 1/60. Is that right?

    Mark

  2. #22
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    If the instruction booklet of your camera does not tell you explicitly that shutter times are "continuously" variable, then I would use only the canonic speed values. If your shutter know does not have any click between values, it is a sign that shutter speed can be freely chosen. This does not happen to be your case.

    Normally people have "clicking" shutter speeds and do all the 1/2, 1/3 EV adjustment with the diaphragm, not with the shutter.

    So in your case if your S90 tells you 1/500 @ f/5.6 for ISO 100, you would set your camera with an ISO 20 film at 1/125 and will open your diaphragm just a little more than 5.6.

    Again, this would be the same exposure as your S90 suggests. With B&W, in general, exposure is a bit of a relative thing, with many films you will find that you will have a printable negative also with an overexposure of 2EV or more and, in general, negative film are more forgiving of overexposure than of underexposure. So you can also just use a diaphragm half-way between f/5.6 and f/4 if you don't want to fiddle with 1/3 EV, just remember to "err" on the side of overexposure.

    Fabrizio
    Fabrizio Ruggeri fine art photography site: http://fabrizio-ruggeri.artistwebsites.com
    Stock images at Imagebroker: http://www.imagebroker.com/#/search/ib_fbr

  3. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by mingaun View Post
    I found the exposures after only shooting one roll of fuji superia 400 very accurate.
    How are you judging the general quality of the exposures? Minilab prints?

    Spot meters will serve you well for making precise tonal manipulations and/or for measuring the precise differences in brightness between subjects. However, for a general purpose light meter, I'd suggest an incident meter. Not only will it give you exposures that are closer to ideal, but it will also be much less of a P.I.T.A. to use than a second camera will be.
    Last edited by 2F/2F; 04-12-2011 at 03:19 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

    - Rob Tyner (1944 - 1991)

  4. #24

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    I just check my M3 and realise that there is no click between the shutter speed values. Aaargh.

    Fabrizio, does that mean if i sort of turn the shutter speed dial between 125 and 60 that is equivalent to 1/2 stop even though there is no click. And if thats the case if i turn it one third towards 60 that is also equivalent to 1/3 stop even if there is no click. Am i correct?

    Rob, so far i have only develop one roll of Fuji Superia 400 from a lab and exposures are spot on using the S90. I have looked at some of the meter today online and i am shocked that those with a spot meter are huge. I want to go light which is why i took up film in the first place. i dont know of a spot meter that is small and can fit into a pocket.

    Mark

  5. #25

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    Fabrizio, my 50mm lens has got clicks for half stops but not 1/3 stop. WHen you say to open up a little from 5.6, you meant turn it a little just before it reaches the half click and that is roughly about 1/3 stop. Is that correct? Sorry this is a bit new to me.

    Mark

  6. #26
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    As far as I know, with most, most lenses you can safely turn the diaphragm ring half-way between clicks and it will not just not break, but also actually give you the exact aperture you wanted. That's even "more true" for lenses for rangefinder cameras (like yours), or for screw-mount lenses in general, as there is no leverage involved and no diaphragm "automatism", the diaphragm will actually close while you operate the ring, so that you are able to see the effect, it's a continuous movement, you could have a 1/100th of a stop if needed :-). So when I say to turn "just a little" I mean "to obtain 1/3 EV if this is what you want to obtain".

    As far as the shutter mechanism is concerned, if there are click-stops I would not dare using an intermediate position between two clicks, lest I damage the mechanism. If there are no clicks one must presume that the shutter speeds are continuously selectable - that you can choose any position - unless the instruction manual tells you otherwise.

    I mean, the factory would never make a camera without "clicks" if there were any danger for the shutter mechanism, so if there are no clicks, I expect any position to be safe.

    Fabrizio
    Fabrizio Ruggeri fine art photography site: http://fabrizio-ruggeri.artistwebsites.com
    Stock images at Imagebroker: http://www.imagebroker.com/#/search/ib_fbr

  7. #27

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    Thanks Fabrizio. Check with the manual and it says there are intermediate settings between the shutter speed values, which i presume choosing values between clicks but if there is a chance of damaging the mechanism i think i will stick to your method of changing the aperture instead. Thank you. This is something new to me.

    Mark

  8. #28

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    Leica rangefinder shutter speeds should be set on the click stop, not in between. It's a clockwork mechanism and intermediate settings simply don't exist. Make minor adjustments through the aperture ring, which can be set incrementally.

    Regards
    Jerry

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by mingaun View Post
    In fact i have one very important question to ask but was afraid to. The new film i am getting is rated at iso 20, how do i expose it at iso 20?? If i calculate from my point and shoot at 100 and half its value twice, it equates to 25. So how do i actually compensate to iso 20 from 25?? Am i missing something here?

    Mark
    Yes, you are missing something.

    Theoretically, yes, you might loose a tiny bit of shadow detail at 25, vs 20, but metering with your digisnapper won't be accurate enough for you to be able to tell the difference in the real world.

    This is because a normal straight print from a negative does not use all the "info" available in a normal negative. You are probably only going to be printing maybe 2/3's of what's there, somewhere off the middle of the film's curve.

    The choices made by whoever prints your negs are a bigger issue by far.
    Mark Barendt, Beaverton, OR

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by jerry lebens View Post
    Leica rangefinder shutter speeds should be set on the click stop, not in between. It's a clockwork mechanism and intermediate settings simply don't exist. Make minor adjustments through the aperture ring, which can be set incrementally.

    Regards
    Jerry
    Good advice.
    Mark Barendt, Beaverton, OR

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin

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