Incident Metering: Street Photography

[baachitraka]

Scenario: Street Photography
======================

How much compensation you will set to the camera when meter reads

Under Sunlight: F8.0 1/500s.

Under Shadow: F8.0 1/30s or 1/60s.

so to keep the shadow detail?

[yeknom02]

I'd walk around with the camera set to f/8, 1/125s and then adjust on the fly depending on where the subject is and what the environment is like. Then again, that's just me.

[BetterSense]

I wouldn't use the meter at all. By now you should know that sharp shadows are about 3-4 stops down from sunny-16. If you subject is in the shadows, expose accordingly. If they are in the sun, expose accordingly. If you just want to be able to walk around with one exposure setting, set the exposure for the shadows and prepare for some dense highlights for subjects that are in the sun.

[Diapositivo]

If you are using negative film and you don't want to consider exposure for every single frame (because you anticipate you will have no time) I would use f/8 @ 1/125 (or f/6.7 @ 1/125) and rely on the dynamic range of negative film, which is more extended in the highlights.

So if your interval is 3 stop, you set your camera at 1 stop above the shadows. If you interval is 4 stops, you set your camera at 1.5 stops above the shadows.

[markbarendt]

Scenario: Street Photography
======================

How much compensation you will set to the camera when meter reads

Under Sunlight: F8.0 1/500s.

Under Shadow: F8.0 1/30s or 1/60s.

so to keep the shadow detail?

If you are after 1 walkabout setting, you could use the duplex method.

Retract the dome so you get flat face readings.

One reading pointed straight at the source, yes in this case really straight at the sun.

The second reading is normally done pointed at the camera, do this one in the shade.

If the readings are as you say f/8 @ 500 And f/8 @ 60 you split the difference in stops. So if you adjust time you would try to get to about 1/180 (which is 1/125 and 1/2) or If you adjust f-stop f/4.5 (f/4 and 1/2).

This splits your losses evenly between highlight and shadow.

Give it a try on an experimental roll. If the shadows are good you are set to go, if you loose too much at one end or the other in a print adjust your EI.