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  1. #1
    ghinson's Avatar
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    Recording exposure

    I'm new at this, and I have a simple question. When you're shooting, how do you record what your exposure settings are, so you can refer back to it when you're looking at the negatives (in my case, to learn)? Is there a printed template form that you use? A memo book pre-printed with the proper information? Just a little memo pad? I haven't been able to find anything online. Help me organize this.

    Thanks,

    Greg Hinson

  2. #2
    Jim Moore's Avatar
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    At one time I used one of these:

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...848146221&rd=1

    I now use the BZTS software for the Palm.

    Jim
    "You miss 100% of the shots you don't take"...Wayne Gretzky

  3. #3
    BWGirl's Avatar
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    Hey Greg!
    I have found one of the best little tools you can ues is one of those small tape recorders. It only takes a second to 'tell' it what you are shooting, the exposure and even a wee bit about conditions. You can transcribe the info you need later at your leisure!
    Jeanette
    .................................................. ................
    Isaiah 25:1

  4. #4

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    I tried using a voice activated recorder but I found it hard to sit down and transfer my babbling into useful readable information. I also found that I wasn't very aware of which details I was noting and thus didn't always record all the information I could have used.

    I now use a small memo book, which fits into the pocket on my camera bag.

    Here's a short sample of what I write:

    10/10/04
    Kodak Gold 100
    Louisville Swamp
    1:46 PM

    Clear skies, bright sun, no haze. 29-100mm

    Twin Trees - trees are roughly 30' apart. @50mm
    27) 250 f/11 (noted the angle of the sun in relation to the subject)
    28) 250 f/11 warming filter
    29) 45 f/11 warming polarizer
    30) 250 f/5.6 warming polarizer

    Twin Trees - second set. Trees are roughly 10' apart. @50mm
    31) 250 f/5.6 wm pl
    I keep these notes on one side of the page only so that on that on the facing page I can make any other notes I feel are necessary. Such as how I found the spot or other subjects I might want to go back and shoot at another time (under different conditions). It seems like a hassle to stop and make note of what you're doing but I have found that I am taking a lot more time to take the photos as well and there may be a payoff in the end for that.

  5. #5
    bjorke's Avatar
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    I also use a Palm, I use "Go Pix" software though -- seems to suit my working style best (sometimes detailed notes, sometimes very sketchy). I use multiple categories to keep track of each roll (they move from "unfiled" at first through "pending" and "processed" and "scanned" and then exported into the memo pad, then to my PC and I print the notes and include them in the binder with the negative pages themselves for further printing/filing -- with a separator, I don't trust storing my negs (even in sleeves) DIRECTLY in contact with office laser paper)

    My gopix logs contain body/lens/date/strobe/exposure/title info per entry, and a name for the collection/session/roll. I include a date stamp in the roll names too, and often add some notes during development and/or printing

    "What Would Zeus Do?"
    KBPhotoRantPhotoPermitAPUG flickr Robot

  6. #6
    KenM's Avatar
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    I recently picked up a digital voice recorder. While you have to transcribe what your record, I find that I can record information a lot faster than if I was writing it down. I normally try to take note of the following: lens, aperature, exposure, filter, development, important zone placement, any other interesting details.

    And so on. Works fairly well. But, as with all things, unless you use it, it won't work. Use a pen and paper, it'll work just as well - as long as you use it.
    Cheers!

    -klm.

  7. #7
    david b's Avatar
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    I use the small moleskin notebook which measures 5.5" x 3.5" and easily fits into my cargo pants pocket.

    I number each roll and list date and time along with aperture/shutter/asa info. Then at the bottom I record the date and time of development along with developer info.

    Works for me.

  8. #8
    ghinson's Avatar
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    I tried the database PhotoAssist that is avail. on the net for PocketPC. It is free, but you have to buy the SprintDB database software to work it. It is okay, but it is too easy to forget to bring the PocketPC (for me) and the entries are not sortable by film/roll number. I will look at the GoPIX software. I like the idea of the digital recorder. I think I might use this, and then transcribe what I said into a notebook once back home. Or even a homemade spreadsheet on the computer. Thanks for all the ideas.

    Greg

  9. #9
    roteague's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BWGirl
    Hey Greg!
    I have found one of the best little tools you can ues is one of those small tape recorders. It only takes a second to 'tell' it what you are shooting, the exposure and even a wee bit about conditions. You can transcribe the info you need later at your leisure!
    I've found the tape recorder quite usefull myself, but primarily only as a backup when a scene is chaning too fast to write things down. I admit, that it takes a bit of discipline to write things down in a small notebook. Since I shoot primarily LF and Fuji QuickLoads I write down the information on the holder itself. I generally don't record shutter speeds/fstop; I've found no compelling reason to do so - although I would be willing to listen if anyone can provide a good reason to do so.
    Robert M. Teague
    www.visionlandscapes.com
    www.apug.org/forums/portfolios.php?u=2235

    "A man who works with his hands is a laborer; a man who works with his hands and his brain is a craftsman; a man who works with his hands and his brain and his heart is an artist" -- Louis Nizer

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by roteague
    I generally don't record shutter speeds/fstop; I've found no compelling reason to do so - although I would be willing to listen if anyone can provide a good reason to do so.
    I've found shutter speed useful for reviewing what works with moving objects, especially water in waterfalls and seascapes.

    I have identified a slow shutter flash sync in one of my cameras (it was leaving the telltale underexposed line/area so I checked the exposure details and they were all 1/125th sec... I tried a few at 1/60th and they were fine, so I now use that camera at 1/60th with flash!)

    I tend to record the exposure, date and location details for MF and 35mm slides. Rarely for colour neg, but then that stuff doesn't get in my camera very often anyway

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