Sestiere di Castello II part
You can now feel the silence in Campiello del Piovan…turn back and take the ponte del Pestrin and bridge to Campo Gorme and take first road to the left, than the second street on your left and the first right, you will cross a bridge, turn left and you will arrive to the church dei Cavalieri di Malta. It was completely robbed by French troops (Napoleon era) and you can visit it only the day when it is open for the Mass, keep informations on the door, but the cloister will worth a visit. Then you must enter in the Scuola degli Schiavoni.
This was the heart of the Dalmatian community in Venice, it was builded in the first years of 1500 and the facade was from architect Giovanni De Zan. Inside you could find the histories of the three Patron Saints (Gerolamo, Trifone and Giorgio) for the Dalmatian, painted between 1502 and 1507 by Vittore (Scarpazza) Carpaccio (seven paintings), one of my favorite painter. If you enjoy his painting you will find more in the Accademia. Turn back and go along the canal in front of you in Fondamenta dei Furlani, take the ponte S. Antonin on your right, you will be in Salizada dei Greci, go until the bridge, do not cross it, go on your right you will arrive in another place to feel the silence. There you will find a Greek-Orthodox church dedicated to S. Giorgio, it was after the 1453 the main center for Greeks outside their land conquered by Turks, near the church that will worth a visit there is the only Istituto Ellenico di studi Bizantini e post-Bizantini outside the Greekland. Turn back to the Scuola degli Schiavoni, you will have it on your left, take the first road after the Scuola and then the first on your right, go ahead until you will find Ponte del Cristo, then Campo Celestia , in front of you two narrow roads, take the one more left, you will arrive in a while on a canal, first road on left and suddendly right……look in front of you!
This is one day in Venexia not for common tourists places.
Maybe after this long walk you will be able to discover other secret Venexia.
This is the initiation.
The boat stop is Celestia (right name for a place like this)
You can go (direction right) with boat number 52 cross out or 23 inside the Arsenale and have your dreams, the boats will stops in San Zaccaria or others mains stop.
Thank you for a quick guide of "Schiavonese" Venezia
I might as well join Vic in Venice for this "slavic" tour, being a Croat myself.
Interestingly, I'm just reading a longer version of your tour, with illustrations, in my edition of "Corto Sconto: itinerari fantastici e nascosti di Corto Maltese a Venezia" (Lizard edizioni 1998).
Being a big fan of Hugo Pratt and Corto Maltese, I was lucky to find this nice booklet during my visit to Rome in 1998 (I bought it at Libreria Feltrinelli on Piazza dell Torre Argentina when i visited Rome in 1998). It's been on a prominent place on my bookshelf at home all these years, and finally, I just might use it as a "Corto Maltese Itinerary" tour guide when I visit - with a little luck, this could be the year I'll finally visit Venezia.
Sory for the ramblings... Are you a fan of Corto Maltese, by any chance?
If this comes through, I'll try to find a few of the gardens illustrated in "Corto Maltese: Favola di Venezia"...
Denis, you are right about the Corto Maltese tour in small edition!
I used my knoledge of Venexia with a track of Corto very well illustrated itinerary.
This is a very interesting book to have a more real vision of the town avoiding the very common places that tourists love so much.
You will find many places in this Venexia strange guide that Hugo Pratt used as background for Corto.
Yes a true fan (mant years ago) as many of my age.
Well, I don't think that I'll be lugging a large format camera like Vic intends to, but I sincerely hope to find a couple of those "magic" places. I'm just afraid that my poor photographic skills won't be able to reproduce that magic. I think I'd rather stick to a Rolleiflex and a Leica with 2-3 lenses and hope for a good light...
Originally Posted by ongarine
Denis: Theres no way I'm hauling a large format this trip I'm thinking:Holga (surprise) Rolleicord, 8 Banners MB (pinhole 6x12). Ongarine: The Castello itinenary is perfect and I'm very grateful for this and all of the excellent information. I'm very much looking forward to having so much time in this city where I've already seen the major tourist attractions (Accademia, San Rocco, I Friari, San Marco, the Doges palace-all VERY worthwhile) so I can just BE there and see what life is like. That being said, I'm reading "City of Fallen Angels" and I'm heartbroken I will never see La Fenice. The idea of a loss that great to have happened so recently just boggles ones imagination.
Holga: if it was any more analog, you'd need a chisel.
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When we visited in 1983, I carried two 35mm cameras (Rollei SL35E, SL2000) and a Linhof Technika 70, and a monopod. I got a wonderful color shot of the Grand canal at sunset with the Tech 70.
speaking about Venexia, is for me, with people outside Venetian region very difficult.
The town changed in a dramatic way in the last 25 years, it seems more and more a fake attraction for tourists that, on the other side, want only very recognizable and "easy" places to consume in a sort of quick ceremony. This could be apply for most of the touristic towns in Italy, I live in Verona and I know this very well.
For this reason I try to give you some informations about Venexia out of choir.
I will give you some more next days to improve your want to see real life and sites in a town that shows (on request) only packaged glamour visions for blind people.
I like your set of cameras for Venexia, more Holgas and Pinholes will help you to catch the suspended time of a water town in the end of winter.
I provide you these weather report web pages, so you will prepare the right suits, shoes and films:
since you have some Italians blood use it to understand
I will in Venexia next week even if in the Carnival time is not my favorite to be there.
Denis fan of Corto Maltese, first Hugo Pratt story (La ballata del mare salato) were published in 1967 I was a teenagers, now many years after when I enter my son's room I see on the shelf all the collection new and old of Corto stories and I have a strange feeling.....
Vic, my wife and I bought some books and maps at the book store today, new ones, and are planning our trip to Italy. I hope to hear how it was for you when you get back. We are looking for a good time of year to go and my heart races just reading this thread. Have a great time there and take many pictures to remember it by.
Everytime I find a film or paper that I like, they discontinue it. - Paul Strand - Aperture monograph on Strand
I'm going to Venice in early March and have also been following this thread avidly.. My only problem is deciding which cameras to bring..
I've visited Italy a few times before, but all further south, this will be a first trip up North and to Venice for me, it looks and sounds just beautiful..
Hope you enjoy your trip too Vic and thanks for the thread!
If you saw a man drowning and you could either save him or photograph the event...what kind of film would you use?
I was in Venice once in early June and it was spectacular. So Sunny and brilliant..hot in the sun, cool in the shade and it stayed light until nearly 22:00/10PM each night. You could see the mountains from the north side of Cannaregio.
I was also there in mid-October and it was wet and cloudy but theres something wonderful about that as well.
I always wanted to go when it empty and haunted and there was a chance of snow. This is that trip.
Last edited by Jersey Vic; 01-29-2008 at 01:10 AM. Click to view previous post history.
Holga: if it was any more analog, you'd need a chisel.