Kino, the resin I bought was a 3 part mixture. One part was a mixed bed resin which was a mixture of anionic and cationic resin beads. The other part (3rd component) was a neutral porous material that sucked up any organic materials. It was similar to activated charcoal only more efficient. That is one reason why the hardware store variety is less efficient. It uses charcoal and only one resin; it has lower capacity, but it is less expensive. I have not tried to work out any conditions for these filters, but have a batch of them in the DR waiting for a chance to do the work.
Sometimes reusing is better than recycling. I've refilled my HP laser toner cartridges for many years. Refilled cartridges suffice for most uses. Likewise, instead of recycling tin cans and plastic and glass bottles and buying them back as remanufactured products, they can be used or adapted in many applications. Sixtyfive years ago, when America didn't have the option of dumping our waste overseas, we said, "Use it up, wear it out, make it do, or do without." That saves money and the environment today, too.
My presumption is that HP does re-use the cartridges - probably via a third-party arrangement with a re-filler. As AgX noted - you can buy "re-filled" printer cartridges at Staples.
Mind you that I am a sole user (as you seem to be). As I noted, in the brochure the label was valid for the return of up to 12 cartridges - so it is an attractive means of responsible disposal for businesses - who are far and away much larger consumers of printer cartridges and are very unlikely to want to refill their own.
In case someone, who has no chance to get his developer waste incinerated, wants to employ a resin/carbon filter. How would he run the treatment?
As you indicated a common kitchen water `purifyer´ could do the job. I don’t know how many brands and systems are out there. But obviously you assume they all contain anion- and cation-exchanging resins, plus that active corbon bed. (Those resins employed in dishwashers only contain a cation-exchanging resin.)
Must the alcality be adjusted?
Would one run be sufficient? Would several runs lower the organic load?
How does one know that the cartridge is exhausted (or rather filled)?
(Whith reference to that current thread on food containers, of course the use of such a cartridge gives way to an erronous use.)
And in the end one need to get rid of the cartridge too. Thus also delivering it to be incinerated. This time however as a smaller volume…
These household or home filters generally only contain resins that remove the positively charged salts such as calcium and iron, and the carbon will remove the organics. Both work to capacity. In household filters, they assume low levels of organics and metal salts, and that is why I said this was inefficient. It can show you the way to go. You would probably have to stack 2 or 3 of these filters for a batch of sludge from your processing work, and run the developer and fixer through them.
Acids and bases would have to be neutralized.
As I stated above, I have the filters here and intend to do some experiments to quantify it. If it works out, then I can get some 'real' resins and test them out and develop a more practical home method that would allow a dry, small volume package to be put out as chemical waste.
I did this all at Kodak in the 70s, but would have to recreate it here and now, and determine the cost effectiveness. The home filters are a nice starting place for anyone interested in trying though.
not that it might not be fun to create a 2-stage macgyver/ mad scientist filter bed
but wouldn't it be more cost effective to have things carted away or use a trickle tank? it really isn't too much effort or cost ...
silver magnets, trickle tanks sold
artwork often times sold for charity
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