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  1. #11

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    Places like Office Depot and Staples can get stamps made. The cost varies depending on the size and # of characters used.
    "Fundamentally I think we need to rediscover a non-ironic world"
    Robert Adams

  2. #12
    David A. James's Avatar
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    Where to Sign?

    Wherever you want to sign and in whatever fashion creatively pleases you. If you want samples of style, see; "The Collection of Alfred Stieglitz - Fifty Pioneers of Modern Photography" by Weston Naef. A Studio Book, The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Viking Press New York (1978). Compare, for example, the styles of Brigman, Puyo and White.


    Quote Originally Posted by roteague
    I'm not sure if this is the correct forum or not, but I was wondering what the general consensus/best business practices are for how prints should be signed. Should they be pencil or ink, on the print or on the mat itself. FWIW, I sign prints in pencil on the mat.

    Your thoughts would be appreciated.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMoore
    Brian,

    Where did you get the "stamp" for the back of your prints. I've been lookin for one but can't seem to find any.

    Thanks,

    Jim
    I got it online at iprint.com, along with some business cards and return address labels.

    hi!

  4. #14

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    When I dry mount, I sign on the mount below the print. I sell my prints with a standard window mat, and dry mount so that there's 1/4" gap between print and mat on the top and sides, and 3/8" on the bottom. This is for 8x10 mounted on 11x14. I increase the gap for bigger prints.

    I also stamp the back.
    "If You Push Something Hard Enough, It Will fall over" - Fudd's First Law of Opposition

  5. #15

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    I just dry (island) mount my prints, so there's no hole to be cut in the overmat. I sign the print on the mat in pen, with special ink (Ph Martin's I think, I don't remember which ink type) in a 3x0 drafting pen.

    Technical information (print date and negative id) is put on the back of the mat.
    -Jason Antman

    "There is nothing worse than a sharp photograph of a fuzzy concept." - A. A.

  6. #16
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    I think I'll just do like Ansel, floating style mount with pencil underneath the right corner. If it's good enough for Ansel should be good enough for me

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sean
    I think I'll just do like Ansel, floating style mount with pencil underneath the right corner. If it's good enough for Ansel should be good enough for me
    I experimented with several styles of signature and finally came to the same opinion. My rational is as follows: I permanently attach the photograph to the mat forming the "basic" unit. The over-mat is cut about 1/2 inch (12.5mm) larger than the photograph outer dimensions, depending on the size of the photograph, usually 11x14 for me. The over-mat can be, and has been, removed from the assembly for maintenance or possible replacement, so my signature, title and date goes on the unit. Clients seem to like it.
    I love the smell of fixer in the morning. It smells like...creativity!
    Truly, dr bob.

  8. #18
    lee
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    Quote Originally Posted by dr bob
    I experimented with several styles of signature and finally came to the same opinion. My rational is as follows: I permanently attach the photograph to the mat forming the "basic" unit. The over-mat is cut about 1/2 inch (12.5mm) larger than the photograph outer dimensions, depending on the size of the photograph, usually 11x14 for me. The over-mat can be, and has been, removed from the assembly for maintenance or possible replacement, so my signature, title and date goes on the unit. Clients seem to like it.
    I would recommend signing on the back of the board that the print is mounted to also. I would tell the name of the print and the copyright info and then sign it there also.

    lee\c

  9. #19
    ann
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    Quote Originally Posted by jantman
    I just dry (island) mount my prints, so there's no hole to be cut in the overmat. I sign the print on the mat in pen, with special ink (Ph Martin's I think, I don't remember which ink type) in a 3x0 drafting pen.

    Technical information (print date and negative id) is put on the back of the mat.
    What does dry(island)mount mean and no hole to be cut in the overmat?
    Have seen the term island mount before but am unclear as if it means to float rather than overlap. How does the overmat not have a window?
    Just curious.

  10. #20
    KenM's Avatar
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    My prints are dry-mounted, with an ink-stamp on the back that details the negative information and my contact information.

    The year the print was made is written underneath the photograph on the left, with my signature on the right. If an overmat is requested, it's made large enough to expose the date and signature.
    Cheers!

    -klm.

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