One thing I've always wondered about powerwinders....
They always tout the speed of the them. The old FPS line.
But how often does anyone NEED that fast an advance?
O.k. If you are watching a leopard take down a gazelle or shooting something that is happening VERY fast.
But how often is something happening THAT fast?
Often a good, fast, thumb works just as well....
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Robert, you've clearly never seen my wife opening my VISA bill - a sight to behold, and I seriously doubt that availablility yet of technology that could catch it on film.
Originally Posted by Robert
But you raise a good point that I'm inclined to agree with. For exactly that reason, I've been considering ditching the nikon with a motor for a manual advance rangefinder with better lenses. I've used the motorwind about 3 times in three years, and matrix metering less and less frequently. I can't see the point in having all those $$ tied up in an slr when it could be spent on good glass. And a mirror lockup would be V useful also!
Fast motor drives - surely only for sports, very occasionally nature work, and of course the obligatory through-the-lens-shot of the Holywood PI engaged in a little 'cover-work' of the 70's thriller.
Last edited by John McCallum; 10-18-2004 at 10:37 PM. Click to view previous post history.
There's only one way to find out!
I have a Canon Motor Drive A, for A-1 and AE1-Program cameras, for sale! Not the small winder, this is the big fast motor with a hand grip. It comes with the AAx12 power pack, can be used as a grip without the power pack (thumb winding is always an option, if the motor is turned off) and can advance at either 3 or 5 fps. Included is a hand-made remote cord. Write me and know the wonders of a real professional motor-driven SLR.
Even for bird photography, I'm rarely using 5 fps on my F-1N, except for the occasional flight sequence shot. On the other hand, I have both the 2.5 fps auto winder and the 5 fps motor drive, and the camera is much more responsive with the motor drive, meaning that in single-frame mode, I can take the next shot faster with the motor drive than with the auto winder.
I use Canon EOS Elan 7 as well as a Rebel. Both will tell my cheap HAMA hotshoe-to-PC adaptor. No problems, it works without ANY problems. So I have to disagree with Canon being bad with this.
Originally Posted by Andre R. de Avillez
Also I like the electronic cable release that Canon makes. It cost me approx. $40 and it works perfect. The button is just like the one on my cameras. I appreciate the stuff my Canons have. Good and fast auto-focus helps me often, although I mainly shoot with MF. The meter is good in all modes (Spot, CW and matrix) and gives me perfect exposure (although I use my handheld Sekonic meter a lot).
I shoot 80% manual and 19% aperture priority and 1% shutter priority. No programs!
Also, when shooting studio shot I really like the automatic film advance! Then I can shoot all I want and not missing shots because I have to advance all the time...!
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My Mamiya 7 has a manual film advance, and since I've been using that camera, I feel like I'm back to where I started! I love it! Very straight forward manual camera. My 35mm equipment lately is so computerized, the F100 is great, but somehow, my 25year old Nikkormat sitting at the back of the closet has been calling.
All it takes is one voltage surge to toast the board. Cheaper to be safe(sync). Get it? snicker,chortle, cough. Sorry.
I also use a separate slave sensor with PC socket, with several Metz 45s. It works fine even off the pop up flash from a compact and cost next to nothing.
Originally Posted by Graeme Hird
Can someone tell me more about these safe-syncs? I have never heard of them, but they sound like a good idea.
Hmmm...I have ordered an IR transmitter so I can put away my cable from cam to flash head.
Originally Posted by Shaggy
What loss do I lament? Two things: long bellows, 11x14 glass plates, and flash powder. Oops, that was three. Oh, and a dark tent. Darn, four. Better stop while I'm behind.
On that hotshoe-to-PC adapter, my impression is that almost everyone conforms to the standard use of the primary two pins, but use of the additional pins varies widely. I'd bet it was the polarity of the circuit that was the problem with the Rebel. If the sync cord has a pigtail with a household AC connector, try flipping it around. Use of a SafeSync-like adapter, as noted, with older flash units is also a good idea, as trigger voltages vary.
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