Hasselblad 80mm CFE vs 80mm CB lens
I plan to begin shooting portarits of people at "wide-open" apertures using analog film.
I want to choose between the Hasselblad 80mm CFE or 80mm Cb lens.
I am aware that the Hasselblad 80mm 2.8 CB lens is a simplified/cheaper version of the Hasselblad 80mm 2.8 CFE lens.
I took the time to look at the MTF charts for both the 80mm CFE and 80mm Cb lenses.
I was surprised to find, that, the cheaper 80mm Cb lens actually produces better and more uniform results across the frame, wide-open at f/2.8.
And, although at f/5.6 the 80mm CB suffers a little in the center, it again seems to do a better job across the frame and out to the edges, actually becoming sharper.
Is this correct?
Did i misunderstand the MTF charts?
Below are the two MTF charts I viewed for comparison.
Thank you in advance for your time.
You are not mistaken. I have owned and used both a 80 CB and a CF (optically identical to the CFE), and could never see a difference in sharpness at any aperture. Get the CB if you don't need the 'F'-setting and if the tiny bit of extra distortion doesn't bother you.
Since you intend to use the lens wide open I don´t think it would matter that much whether you choose the CFE or the CB. Both will do fine and the differences might be hardly discernable. However I wonder why you want to use a CFE lens? Do you own an F-Body like 203FE? Then I definitely go with the CFE lens because of the meter, but I would recommend the 110/2 instead. In case you own a V-Body it would not make too much sense using this lens. Choosing the CB or Cfi-version (or even older CF) will be much cheaper.
Good question ,
You must read the higher curve MTF chart as more acutance , it doesnt mean better but someone look to this higher curve will say wow how sharp , but it is not actually.
For portrait work , 70 years old Summaron is a good example where I gave a post yesterday.
Summaron have weaker curve than the Summicron but it resolves 585 lines per milimeter at the center and 260 lines at the corner. Summicron have better mtf curve , modern and faraway newer but it is 585 to 110.
MTF curves explains not true for lens tests but you can see you are being cheated.
So which one is better ? Write to Zeiss Archives and there are many professors which will enlighten you. But ask intelligent questions .
My concern is that i plan to scan the images I make with this lens.
And, i have become very aware of how brutally revealing the image becomes once scanned and enlarged.
I use to use many lenses wide-open, until i went digital or started scanning.
Now I can clearly see how badly the corners look in those images.
So, I am now very conscientious of "corner/edge performance" and would be willing to give up some "center performance" as a trade-off.
Anyway, if I understand correctly: everyone is saying that the lenses will perform the same "wide-open"? I am very interested in the "edge/corner" performance.
Sponsored Ad. (Subscribers to APUG have the option to remove this ad.)
By the way , welcome to APUG.
115 is faraway better than the toyotas. Believe me.
Your question is about Zeiss and as ? said the best answer could come from the zeiss.
Find their website and adk the queestion. You will receive the best answer in couple of days before separating from hard earned money.
By the way , you can search the flickr for that lens , search google for acutanse or acutance , I could not remember the spelling. Higher curved mtf means this nothing else at german optics.
Try to understand what do you want from lens.
Lots of whites , strong lights or more educated look.
Try to find Summaron and Summicron mtf charts , they are easily reachable at Google and flickr them.
Some mtf charts are showing hints for night performance with waving opposite t and s curves.
These are highly corrected lenses and dont think there is a problem.
By the way , you can attach a 120 years old brass lens on to your hasselblad and get very good bokeh and depth and degrades. May be it would be cheaper and you get lots of fun. I highly advise this option.
Do you know Julia Margaret Cameron from 1800s. May be she was the best photographer ever come.
She used a Darlot.
There is a member who attached that lens on to his Hassy and very romantic.
Dont miss your chance.
You are speaking of Andrew Moxom. He uses the 2000 series Hasselblad cameras, which have a focal plane shutter. The focal plane shutter is necessary to make it work, so the 500 series Hasselblad will not work.
Those old lenses can (and will if you're not careful) flare a lot, but when you get it right the soft highlights and the waaaaay open shadows can be used to fabulous results. I'm currently trying out a 50mm Summitar for a Leica, and it has some of the characteristics the OP is asking for.
I think it's best to look to a different camera in order to be able to use lenses with lower contrast rendition.
There is someone at the apug forums who installed Darlot to Hasselblad .
If you post to the forums asking owner of the Darlotblad and be a friend at facebook than scroll the gallery , may be you would want the same.
As you know Darlot is the lens of Julia Margaret Cameron.
Darlotblad is a excellent workhorse , I want to add you will face great difficulties to match your hasselblad with a leica. Leica is matchless old or new. I dont know how you reached to a idea , old leicas are low contrast , if I am not wrong they are not.
Rent few old Leicas and take same image with Hasselblad and with them.
I am not sure what is old for you , 70 years or 20 years ?
You have actually read my mind.
I started this journey wanting to attach an old/vintage lens to my Hasselblad to get crazy Bokeh and some swirly vignetting.
Can you suggest a lens that can do this.
What is a good entry level old lens for this that will not break the bank?
You can contact with Darlotblad owner Andrew Moxom or Maxom.
Try to find him at facebook and APUG. He is a very nice guy and his work is amazing on Hasselblad and Lens bridge between. May be he or someoneelse , bought a Hasselblad cap and dig a hole and attach a
tube. Its a 200 dolar cnc business or less if you want someoneelse do it for you.
May be he can suggest you a machine shop and sell you a lens.
But internet is wise and look at this link and prices .
Open a new thread at APUG , there are lots of experts.
Best wishes ,