KEH Repair pat on the back
I sent a cosmetically and optically mint but very shutter-sick RB67 65mm/4.5 C to KEH Repair for a CLA, and received it back today (2 weeks turnaround, $130). I measured the before and after-CLA shutter speeds (with a laptop and light-sensor type shutter tester that I have a lot of experience using and have come to trust, at least for speeds 1/500 and under). Here are the actual speeds I recorded for this lens (times rounded to approximate fractions of a second):
Before CLA After CLA
1 sec .94 (.9 sec) .89 (.9 sec)
1/2 .60 (1/6 sec) .51 (1/2 sec)
1/4 .37 (1/3 sec) .27 (1/4 sec)
1/8 .24 (1/4 sec) .15 (1/6 sec)
1/15 .12 (1/8 sec) .057 (1/17 sec)
1/30 .10 (1/10 sec) .0296 (1/33 sec)
1/60 .08 (1/12 sec) .0162 (1/62 sec)
1/125 .072 (1/14 sec) .0087 (1/115 sec)
1/250 .063 (1/16 sec) .0047 (1/213 sec)
1/400 .044 (1/23 sec) .0033 (1/303 sec)
The shutter on this lens also had the all-too-common "Seiko Shelf" disease (probably as a result of sitting in a closet for years and years in a cocked condition) so was acting like it was in "T" mode all the time. It now looks and works like new (the 1/300 is good enough for me, since I suspect no RB67 Seiko leaf shutter has ever hit an honest 1/400 except maybe when brand new, assuming the shutter's other speeds were approximately correct). I now have a "new" 65mm for my trusty old RB. I thought I'd pass along a pat on the back to KEH's repair shop, since we are all too ready to flame a shop for bad work (and that's fine), but often don't bother to say something on the other side of the coin. I have another lens or two I'm going to send KEH now that that one went well.
As for storing RB lenses, I ALWAYS release the tension on the shutters of my lenses before putting them away for any length of time. It's easy to do, just press the tiny little button in on the rear of the lens and slide the swinging pins sideways. Recocking them is easy to do prior to re-mounting, just twist the pins toward the green dot until they click and lock. If you forget to re-cock them, no harm done--you'll get reminded, because you won't be able to mount the lens in an un-cocked condition. Page 34 of the RB67 Pro-S manual says "It is advisable to release the shutter when the lens is not to be used for a long period." and shows how to do this. I have read MANY similar accounts on the internet of RB67 Seiko leaf shutter problems, and I believe many of them would have never happened if people would simply RTFM and store their lenses with the shutters released!
I shoot with a Bronica ETRSi, whose lenses also have Seiko shutters. I wonder if I should be doing the same thing? For what it's worth, the Bronica manual specifically says it's fine to leave the lenses cocked all the time. So I didn't explore how to manually fire and re-cock the shutter when the lens is off the camera. Any Bronica users with a suggestion of how to do what the OP suggests?
My other camera is a Pentax
I don't think it makes much difference. It only slightly reduces the tension in the spring. It doesn't slacken it off completely.
Originally Posted by picker77
"People who say things won't work are a dime a dozen. People who figure out how to make things work are worth a fortune" - Dave Rat.
Heck, I can't prove one way or the other that it helps, but Mamiya's engineers seemed to think it important enough to include in the manual, which is good enough for me. I've never gotten in trouble when I RTFM, but have (numerous times) put myself in the trick bag for NOT doing so, LOL.
Originally Posted by Steve Smith
As for the ETRSi, you can do the same thing (release the shutter), or at least I can on my ETRSi's 75mm PE--look at the rear of the dismounted lens, and just below and to the right of the word "SEIKO", around the outside rim or edge of the mount, you'll see a small flat spring-loaded lever. When pressed in, this lever does the same thing as the small push-in pin on the Mamiya RB lens, and will allow you to slide the cocking levers away from the green dot and fire the lens. Just don't forget to recock before remounting. However, if the Bronica manual specifically says it's no a big deal for the ETR series, then why mess with it?
You and me both, amen brother.
Originally Posted by Sirius Glass
[ Insert meaningless camera listing here ]
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