Switch to English Language Passer en langue franÁaise Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 69,723   Posts: 1,515,010   Online: 1242
      
Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 43
  1. #21
    Bill Burk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Shooter
    4x5 Format
    Posts
    3,101
    Images
    46
    Quote Originally Posted by cjbecker View Post
    Then they are not at eye level.

    This is getting fun.
    This is where Twin-Lens Reflexes and Hasselblads without prisms come in handy.

    Lower the camera and look down to compose. Then glance up and make eye contact with your subject as you shoot.

  2. #22
    cjbecker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    IN
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    734
    Images
    19
    Then again the camera is looking up at them.

  3. #23

    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    BE
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    375
    Blog Entries
    1
    Images
    28
    I think I understand what you're trying to say, and no, I don't think there's a workout that doesn't involve camera movements to achieve this. If you really need to use medium format, you could try a roll film back on your view camera, or invest in a Fuji GX680.
    And the sign said, "long haired freaky people need not apply"

  4. #24
    Diapositivo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Rome, Italy
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    1,844
    Oh, well, for that, it's either you have movements, or you don't have them.

    For the medium format you can try some adapters like those:

    http://www.zoerk.com/

    you have to use a lens with a larger-than-normal image circle and adopt it to a MF through an adapter which gives you "movements". Some adopters give you both movements.

    In your case it is probably faster to just use a LF camera with a roll film adapter on the back.
    Fabrizio Ruggeri fine art photography site: http://fabrizio-ruggeri.artistwebsites.com
    Stock images at Imagebroker: http://www.imagebroker.com/#/search/ib_fbr

  5. #25
    cjbecker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    IN
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    734
    Images
    19
    Quote Originally Posted by waltereegho View Post
    I think I understand what you're trying to say, and no, I don't think there's a workout that doesn't involve camera movements to achieve this. If you really need to use medium format, you could try a roll film back on your view camera, or invest in a Fuji GX680.
    Thats what iím thinking. I just need to have a medium format camera with movements. The gx680 does look it would be what I would like. But will probably end up getting a rollfilm back for the 4x5.

    I was just setting up th medium format and also the large format in my room, trying to see how I could get the medium format to achieve the style that iím going for and I donít think itís possible in a quick fashion or easy fashion.

  6. #26

    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    15,762
    get a baby speed graphic
    and a roll film back
    you can do rise on the front,
    instead of drop on the back ..
    they don't sell for much,
    and the roll film holders appear
    often as well, or u can just dremmel
    a 4x5 one to fit ...
    if my apug gallery looks empty you might check these places

    website
    blog
    sell-site

  7. #27
    cjbecker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    IN
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    734
    Images
    19
    I was thinking that or getting a vh-r or vh. And using the horseman or baby speed as both the portrait and walk around medium format camera. Or I could just get a 150 for 6x6 and accept the difference. Women would appreciate the affects of a 150 over an 80 for portraits on a 6x6. But still I still have the problem with wide angles on the 6x6.

  8. #28
    Mainecoonmaniac's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    2,881
    Images
    6
    I cheap solution is to have a tripod with a rise and fall crank. If you want to get really fancy, you can use a camera stand with lateral capabilities. The Cadillac of camera stands are Swiss made Fobas. They have wheels that you can roll, a smooth operating column a ball bearing arm too. They cost as much as a car.

  9. #29

    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Alamo City, USA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    834
    Quote Originally Posted by cjbecker View Post
    Ok so I have a problem and I need some help with it. Here is a little back ground first. I shoot medium format and large format camera. The medium format camera has no movements and the large format has full movements. This question is geared towards shooting portraits, with a tripod. 3/4 to full body portraits.

    For portraits I prefer to shoot eye level, and with the camera Level so I do not get any weird changes in proportions (not sure if thats the right word to use). I’m talking about like the equivalent of tilting a wide angle up and down.

    With the large format camera I put the lens at eye level, with the camera level, then drop the back down so it’s composed with the head at the top of the frame.

    With the medium format that does not have movements, I put the camera at eye level, and also with the camera level, but then it’s not composed the way that I prefer. The subject is in the bottom of the frame with lots of room above there head. The only way to correct that is but tilting the camera down or lowering the whole camera, but that either makes the proportions wrong, or makes the subject look down at you. Neither that I like.

    Is there any way around the problem of framing without a camera with movements?
    No, not if you want to... (rightfully, usually)... keep the lens at eye level and parallel to the subject. It's physically impossible without rear rise or front fall. Using a longer lens will deemphasize the distortion you mentioned but worsens compression distortion.

    ETA: For 3/4 length portraits I'd prefer a lens focal length of approximately 1.5x the diagonal of the usable (uncropped) area of the film and for full length I'd probably use a normal lens. Actually, a normal lens should work okay for either.
    Last edited by Old-N-Feeble; 05-15-2012 at 11:19 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  10. #30
    Bill Burk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Shooter
    4x5 Format
    Posts
    3,101
    Images
    46
    Quote Originally Posted by cjbecker View Post
    Then again the camera is looking up at them.
    Yes, the subject's eyes will be aiming over the top of the camera.

    I agree with the solution: Rise or fall to change the composition without visually distorting the perspective.

Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  ó   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin