Irrc my rz would default to a mechanical shutter speed of I think 1/400 if the battery died or was removed. If I've remembered correctly then you don't really need a battery, as it's just a convenience item for those for some unfathomable reason want to shoot some other speed.
That's just, like, my opinion, man...
You need to select orange-dot mode to get the 1/400 mechanical shutter. Handy for studio use though!
Thanks guys. I'm pretty excited to start messing around with it. I will buy a couple of those giant, heavy batteries for it. One thing I want to get right off the bat is the cable release. Since I do some landscape stuff it will be nice to have the mirror lock up feature.
More to come and I'll post pics when it gets here.
They're not heavy, giant but pretty cheap. They're the same as those doggy shock collar batteries.
Originally Posted by robbalbrecht
The batteries are about 1/3 of the size of a AA battery.
Originally Posted by robbalbrecht
If you have a choice, get the silver oxide versions of the battery. Or a variety - some alkaline and some silver oxide. The silver oxide versions (4SR44 and other designations) are more expensive, but they last a lot longer than the alkaline ones.
If you have more than one piece of equipment that uses them, this seems to be a decent quantity price for 20: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Camelion-20p...item35be340cb3
“Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”
Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2
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Congrats on acquiring the awesome RZ II.
A couple of notes, now that you have purchased the Pro II version of the RZ.
If you want to purchase a power winder for your Pro II, you have to buy the 'Winder II' version of winder.
The original 'Pro' winder will not work on the Pro II body. No 'upgrade' modifications are available.
If you find yourself wanting AE, 'automatic exposure' input or control, the only prism that will work
on the Pro II is the prism made specifically for the Pro II. The knobs are on the top of this prism, (not the side).
An original Pro AE prism can only be used on the Pro II, only after the prism has been modified.
I don't think MAC America is offering this service anymore. When they did, the service was in excess of $350.
Serviceable Pro II prism's can usually be purchased on the used market now for less then $250.
Without the aforementioned modification, the AE 'chimney finder' can not be used on the Pro II, either.
The economical PD prism can not be used on the Pro II, nor can it be modified for this use.
Take care when using the 'fine focus' knob.
This knob is only to be employed for the final, fine focus 'conformation' adjustment.
Obtain focus using the normal knob, then, very easily, only use the fine focus knob to confirm focus.
If you use the fine focus knob to rack the bellows through a long throw, you could strip the fine gears,
rendering the fine focus inoperative. A very expensive repair.
The RZ Pro II, (all RZ's IIRC), have a flash 'trigger voltage' limit of 12 volts.
The RZ's are an electronic camera, so if you don't know the trigger voltage of your flashes,
use a 'safe sync' device, or wireless triggers...both of which, will not allow the high
trigger voltage to travel back through the camera's electronics.
http://instagram.com/p/Oj5LAMlNCf/ (yeah Instagram.. Sorry)
Everything looks to be in great shape. Only one surprise though. One of the backs popped off when I rotated it. Good thing I didn't have it loaded with film. Tried it with and without the dark slide in and it randomly popped off both times. That's a little disconcerting.... The other one seems to be fine and it's loaded up with Delta 400.
Thanks Marc for all that info. Much appreciated.
Backs should never just pop off.
Assuming you have the big black plastic tab at the bottom of the back in the locked (clockwise viewed from rear) position, it should absolutely stay on. It should not be possible to unlock that black tab with the darkslide removed unless you push the tiny metal override tab next to it, so check the position of the override tab and fiddle with it a bit. While it's unloaded, check that the darkslide interlock is working on the locking tab and that the locking tab isn't drifting open. If you have a second back (get one anyway; one reason to have such a chunky camera is the flexibility of having a bunch of loaded backs laying around and they're damn cheap now), see if it behaves any better. If backs are randomly falling off, there's something very wrong and you need to return something, probably the back.
Thanks for the tip. I've used the old Duracell 4LR44 for years at $6 each. I think they were alkaline. Didn't know they made silver oxide batteries that size. I'll give them a try.
Originally Posted by MattKing
I found the problem. It's the back it's self. Thankfully I got two of them. The problem is the lock lever hits one of those little silver buttons on the back of the camera when it rotates and gets pushed to its unlocked state. I'll be returning it for a new one this week.