My guess (just that, a guess) is that they did it so as to not to compete against their 4-element lenses, such as the Xenar 2.8. Schneider for example had a Isco Westar (Isco was the "second trademark" of Schneider Kreuznach) also f/2.9. A few others made lenses with this aperture, such as Meyer with its Trioplan amongst others.
The Baltar is probably a rebadged lens of those makers.
Here's a few pics of mine. As I mentioned it is really fun to use. It is strictly 6X6. The lens is a Enna Werk Munchen Ennagon 1:3.5, f= 7.5cm, Speeds are B thru 300. Aperture is 3.5 thru 22. I use a old Vivitar flash w/ sync. And I made my own lens hood from a rubber section of rifle scope cap. These are noted for some lens flair and I have not had a problem with it since making the hood.
One of the biggies with this camera are getting your distances correct! When I pace something off I've always been within an inch or so of measurement. Then again, I worked in the woods many years. I plan on picking up a little rangefinder in the future for old age and senior moments haha! You can mount it on the cold shoe. Often I leave distance on the lens set at infinity and just take shots from 10 ft on out. But for closeup I would measure accurately.
Now I could use some advice from someone more experienced w/ these.
When I shoot color what setting on the top dial should I use, there is a color "T" setting or a Color "K"
setting, along w/ your ASA/din settings? Say it's fuji Reala ISO 100? On black and white I just set the proper ASA.
I have the Solida I with Enna Ennagon 1:3.5, f= 7.5cm and shutter speeds B thru 300. It doesn't have the film speed/type indicator on the film advance knob but otherwise is the same as 2bit's. I really like this camera and lens and would like to have the time to use it more. I think this is a somewhat under rated piece of kit.
One of the biggies with this camera are getting your distances correct! When I pace something off I've always been within an inch or so of measurement. Then again, I worked in the woods many years.
If you can keep the aperture to f5.6 or smaller, distance is not that critical. When using viewfinder cameras (for cityscapes, usually), I keep the infinity mark on f5.6 on the depth of field scale and leave it there.