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Thread: Franka Solida 1

  1. #11
    Steve Smith's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peltigera View Post
    with a f2.9 lens - why not a f2.8 like everyone else?
    I have a Balda with an f2.9 lens. A very strange figure. I think I would have stretched the truth a bit (i.e. lied) and marked it up as f2.8!


    Steve.
    "People who say things won't work are a dime a dozen. People who figure out how to make things work are worth a fortune" - Dave Rat.

  2. #12
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    My guess (just that, a guess) is that they did it so as to not to compete against their 4-element lenses, such as the Xenar 2.8. Schneider for example had a Isco Westar (Isco was the "second trademark" of Schneider Kreuznach) also f/2.9. A few others made lenses with this aperture, such as Meyer with its Trioplan amongst others.

    The Baltar is probably a rebadged lens of those makers.

  3. #13
    Steve Smith's Avatar
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    The Super Baldax I have was available with a Schneider Radionar at f2.9 and also an f2.9 Rodenstock lens as well as the Baltar. I don't think it was available with an f2.8 lens.


    Steve.
    "People who say things won't work are a dime a dozen. People who figure out how to make things work are worth a fortune" - Dave Rat.

  4. #14
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    Not the Baldax, but for example it was the case of the Super Pontura, available with Trioplan, Tessar or Xenar (and maybe others, at least these are the ones I recall off-hand).

  5. #15

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    Franka Solida ll

    Here's a few pics of mine. As I mentioned it is really fun to use. It is strictly 6X6. The lens is a Enna Werk Munchen Ennagon 1:3.5, f= 7.5cm, Speeds are B thru 300. Aperture is 3.5 thru 22. I use a old Vivitar flash w/ sync. And I made my own lens hood from a rubber section of rifle scope cap. These are noted for some lens flair and I have not had a problem with it since making the hood.
    One of the biggies with this camera are getting your distances correct! When I pace something off I've always been within an inch or so of measurement. Then again, I worked in the woods many years. I plan on picking up a little rangefinder in the future for old age and senior moments haha! You can mount it on the cold shoe. Often I leave distance on the lens set at infinity and just take shots from 10 ft on out. But for closeup I would measure accurately.
    2bitsClick image for larger version. 

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  6. #16

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    Now I could use some advice from someone more experienced w/ these.
    When I shoot color what setting on the top dial should I use, there is a color "T" setting or a Color "K"
    setting, along w/ your ASA/din settings? Say it's fuji Reala ISO 100? On black and white I just set the proper ASA.
    Thanks

  7. #17
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    T (or CT or DAY, depending on the camera) is for color reversal film, daylight type. K (or CK or A) is for color reversal film, artificial light type (incandescent lamps with 3400º Kelvin)

    Fuji Reala should have its own setting, N (or CN) for Color Negative film, daylight type.

    On these cameras, that ISO dial is simply a reminder for your convenience, and it has no effect whatsoever on the final result by itself.

  8. #18

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    jnoir,
    That's what I thought. It's nice to know what they stand for.
    Thanks for the info!

  9. #19

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    I have the Solida I with Enna Ennagon 1:3.5, f= 7.5cm and shutter speeds B thru 300. It doesn't have the film speed/type indicator on the film advance knob but otherwise is the same as 2bit's. I really like this camera and lens and would like to have the time to use it more. I think this is a somewhat under rated piece of kit.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2bits View Post
    One of the biggies with this camera are getting your distances correct! When I pace something off I've always been within an inch or so of measurement. Then again, I worked in the woods many years.
    2bits
    If you can keep the aperture to f5.6 or smaller, distance is not that critical. When using viewfinder cameras (for cityscapes, usually), I keep the infinity mark on f5.6 on the depth of field scale and leave it there.

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