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  1. #11
    TheFlyingCamera's Avatar
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    Not much bigger than the Sekonic 308 is the 408 - another discontinued model you can find on eBay. It does incident, reflected, 5-degree spot and flash. Uses a single AA battery, and is weatherproof and somewhat ruggedized (no, you don't want to repeatedly bounce it off rocks - it will break like any other - but the occasional bump and bang will do it little to no harm. I have two of them (one's a backup) and they've both been dragged around and knocked into stuff and come through with flying colors). They can also be user calibrated to match personal preferences or another meter. This is a big plus if you sometimes use an in-camera meter, or you have standardized your exposure/development routine around another meter which you are replacing with this.

  2. #12

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    Thanks for the replies guys, I appreciate the help. I will look into the Sekonic L-308S and L-408. I don't really need spot metering because I rarely (if ever) use it. I will be fine with incident and reflected metering. Flash would be a bonus.

    I think it's safe to say that whatever I go with will be better than toting around my DSLR and using it for long exposure metering haha.

  3. #13
    TheFlyingCamera's Avatar
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    Especially for shooting long time exposures, a DSLR is bad because digital doesn't have reciprocity, so it's easy to forget that you need to calculate it if you use the DSLR as a pseudo-Polaroid.

  4. #14

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    I got an L408 off of ebay for £125, okay it has a 5 degree instead of a 1 degree spot, but if you can't stretch to the 508 or the 758 it's very good for the money. TheFlyingCamera pretty much covered it all in his post.

  5. #15

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    I have been using Gossen Digisix since about 3 years and it is a great little device. VERY simple to use, once you measured the EV value you get all possible shutter-aperture combinations at the same time. and it does reflected metering with about 30 degree cone. And it is tiny, has built-in countdown timer, clock alarm and thermometer (should you need any of those additional features)

    It is one of very few things in photography I got new and kept this long

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by TheFlyingCamera View Post
    Especially for shooting long time exposures, a DSLR is bad because digital doesn't have reciprocity, so it's easy to forget that you need to calculate it if you use the DSLR as a pseudo-Polaroid.
    That is a very good point, does the L-408 compensate for reciprocity? Or is there a built in feature for it? (I understand that reciprocity is different for each film so I'm going to assume no but I've been surprised before).

  7. #17

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    Good assumption. I know of no meter that compensates for reciprocity. I'd be surprised, as in REALLY SURPRISED, if someone knows of one that does.

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by BrianShaw View Post
    Good assumption. I know of no meter that compensates for reciprocity. I'd be surprised, as in REALLY SURPRISED, if someone knows of one that does.
    With today fast microprocessor it's not difficult to build such a meter but you would have to program in the reciprocity characteristic of the film you use as they are all different. But then as film use isn't that much popular any more it would be hard to recoup the development cost.

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chan Tran View Post
    With today fast microprocessor it's not difficult to build such a meter but you would have to program in the reciprocity characteristic of the film you use as they are all different. But then as film use isn't that much popular any more it would be hard to recoup the development cost.
    So, you can use a basic LunaPro and the reciprocity chart from your film's datasheet, or develop a meter containing a microprocessor. To borrow a line from Thomas Earnshaw, it seems like going around back of a house and breaking open the back door while the front door stands open. That is, finding the most complex solution available for a dirt-simple problem.

  10. #20
    TheFlyingCamera's Avatar
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    Actually, it wouldn't be very hard to program something like that at all- there's already several light meter apps for the iPhone. wouldn't be hard to modify one of them to let you select a film type and automatically curve the exposure.

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