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  1. #21
    BradS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by E. von Hoegh View Post
    This works pretty well with negative materials. If you are using color reversal (and you should....get a projector for 6x6 slides and flabbergast the digikinder), you'll find that a meter is neccesary due to the very short scale...

    Not necessarily the case. I have successfully shot plenty of Provia (in 4x5 no less!) at mid day with nothing more than Sunny-16.

  2. #22
    Steve Smith's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BradS View Post
    Not necessarily the case. I have successfully shot plenty of Provia (in 4x5 no less!) at mid day with nothing more than Sunny-16.
    It's not really surprising that sunny 16 is accurate. The sun as a light source is a constant. The only thing modifying it is the amount of of diffusion added by clouds (and to a lesser extent, pollution in the air).

    The only variable is in our abilities to recognise it.

    Whilst we might not be able to accurately measure actual light levels using our eyes due to the fact that our irises open and close to compensate, we can recognise contrast which is also dependant upon the diffusion added by clouds.


    Steve.
    "People who say things won't work are a dime a dozen. People who figure out how to make things work are worth a fortune" - Dave Rat.

  3. #23

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    for my own work at least it might be sunny 11, but a lot of the time it is sunny 8 or 5.6 ( box camera ) ...

  4. #24
    MattKing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wblynch View Post
    I miss those little fold up sheets that used to come in the film boxes.
    For the last few years, the info was often printed on the inside of the box itself.
    Matt

    “Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”

    Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2

  5. #25
    John cox's Avatar
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    I do a night photography project every year and have found that similar rules apply at night. The moon is usually as bright as a sunny 16 day (If you were to take a picture of the moon), you can zone meter accordingly and get results that work. This comes in handy as sometimes batteries freeze in Canadian winter nights making light meters moot.

  6. #26
    markbarendt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ToddB View Post
    cool.. Got any guesses on cloudy ?

    ToddB
    http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.htm
    Mark Barendt, Beaverton, OR

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin

  7. #27

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    I shoot a lot of transparency film, and don't have or use a meter.

    Apologies for the image quality and 35mm... I don't have a scanner. But just as an example this scene is not so straightforward as mid-day sun on your front lawn. Once you've got an eye for it you can figure it out, most of the time you just need to consider the deepness and contrast of shadows for a good indication of how bright it is. A meter becomes more handy the duller it gets, when you can no longer rely on shadows to give a good indication of the light.

    I would not however advise anybody to not have a meter with them. When you need it, you'll really need it. But your eyes can be pretty darn accurate for most situations.

  8. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by John cox View Post
    I do a night photography project every year and have found that similar rules apply at night. The moon is usually as bright as a sunny 16 day (If you were to take a picture of the moon), you can zone meter accordingly and get results that work. This comes in handy as sometimes batteries freeze in Canadian winter nights making light meters moot.
    Not too surprising, it is illuminated by the same sunlight after all!

    I have a metered prism for my ETRSi and a couple of ancient handheld meters which came as part of ebay camera lots. I don't tend to use them though as I like the waist level finder (and I'm not so keen on the bulk of the speed winder if walking around with the camera, without that I find it very hard to hold the camera steady with a prism finder on). I only shoot B&W negative film at the moment and for that I find Sunny 16 works pretty well.

    Of late I've taken to trying to guess the correct exposure with my 35mm cameras before I activate the metering. I'm usually right to within half a stop or so, and it makes a good check for metering faults (like the ME Super I had which underexposed by two stops until I dripped lighter fluid into the film speed mechanism and worked thirty years of gunk out).

    What I have noticed is that it's better to look for shadows than it is to try to guess light levels, especially if you have self-tinting glasses or sunglasses on. You also need to think about location - I'd guess that my shaded front garden would probably be about f5.6 at the moment, while the sunlit part of the back garden would be f11-f16.
    Matt

  9. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by BradS View Post
    Not necessarily the case. I have successfully shot plenty of Provia (in 4x5 no less!) at mid day with nothing more than Sunny-16.
    Move into deep woods with the same film and you'l find that meter pretty handy.
    I haven't been claiming sunny-16 doesn't work, at mid-day and in other simple lighting conditions. I am claiming it's no substitute for a meter. The reason being, that if you are filling the whole scale of whichever film you are using there is no exposure latitude; any deviation and either the highlights or shadows are not what I want. I like to know what I have on the film before I process it (aka previsualisation), and my printing is done with an enlarger - no fauxtoshoppe - or contacts from 8x10.

  10. #30
    benjiboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by E. von Hoegh View Post
    Move into deep woods with the same film and you'l find that meter pretty handy.
    I haven't been claiming sunny-16 doesn't work, at mid-day and in other simple lighting conditions. I am claiming it's no substitute for a meter. The reason being, that if you are filling the whole scale of whichever film you are using there is no exposure latitude; any deviation and either the highlights or shadows are not what I want. I like to know what I have on the film before I process it (aka previsualisation), and my printing is done with an enlarger - no fauxtoshoppe - or contacts from 8x10.
    I've known how to use "sunny sixteen" since I was a teenager in the 1950s when light meters were much less common and far beyond the pocket of a schoolboy, but nowadays when perfectly usable meters can be bought so inexpensively, is it some form of inverse snobbery that some people think they are too clever to use them ?
    Ben

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