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  1. #1

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    Sunny 16.. very accurate

    Hi guys,

    as long as I've been shooting.. I'm ambarrassed to say that i just found about Sunny 16 theory a couple of weeks ago. I tried it last weekend and I was amazed on how accurate the images came out as far as exposure.

    ToddB

  2. #2
    henk@apug's Avatar
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    Sunny 16.. very accurate

    Can come in very handy indeed !

  3. #3
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    I use a lot of cameras without meters and I use the sunny 16 rule frequently, although I usually find it to be more like sunny 11 or sunny 13. It has to be pretty bright to go all the way to f16.

    I even find it extremely handy when I am using a camera with a meter. I commonly look at the scene and the light, decide what I want my exposure settings to be, and then check the metering in the viewfinder to see if the camera agrees with me. I frequently go with my own settings even if the camera doesn't totally agree and I am rarely wrong on my exposures. My compositions are frequently screwed up, but the exposure usually comes out pretty good.

  4. #4

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    Indeed, I was obsessed with having meters built in until I tried Sunny 16. With negative film, it works just fine. Err on the side of overexposure, and you can't go wrong really.

  5. #5
    Rick A's Avatar
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    My first 35mm camera didnt have a meter, i went by the exposure recommendation packaged with the film. Nearly 50 years later I fing I still dont use a meter, unless its a critical shot. Mostly I go with sunny 11, unless a bright background, then its sunny 16.
    Rick A
    Argentum aevum

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by ToddB View Post
    Hi guys,

    as long as I've been shooting.. I'm ambarrassed to say that i just found about Sunny 16 theory a couple of weeks ago. I tried it last weekend and I was amazed on how accurate the images came out as far as exposure.

    ToddB
    This works pretty well with negative materials. If you are using color reversal (and you should....get a projector for 6x6 slides and flabbergast the digikinder), you'll find that a meter is neccesary due to the very short scale - 5 stops in the case of Velvia - of the material.

    Another case where you'll need a meter is the zone system.

  7. #7

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    cool.. Got any guesses on cloudy ?

    ToddB

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by ToddB View Post
    cool.. Got any guesses on cloudy ?

    ToddB
    Get a meter and you don't need to guess.

  9. #9

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    Printed on the Inside of a Box of Kodak Plus-X pan, ASA 125:

    Set your camera or meter to ASA 125 (if it has a meter) and shutter speed to 1/125 second.

    Bright or hazy sun on light sand or snow f/16

    Bright or hazy sun (distinct shadows) f/11—use f/5.6 for backlit close-up subjects

    Weak, hazy sun (soft shadows) f/8

    Cloudy bright (no shadows) f/5.6

    Heavy overcast/open shade f/4—subject shaded from the sun but lighted by a large area of clear sky

  10. #10
    Steve Smith's Avatar
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    That is actually sunny 11 then as most photographs are not taken on sand or snow.

    My understanding was:

    f16 Bright sun
    f11 Cloudy
    f8 Overcast
    f5.6 Heavy overcast

    and that f22 should be used on sand or snow in bright sun.


    Steve.
    "People who say things won't work are a dime a dozen. People who figure out how to make things work are worth a fortune" - Dave Rat.

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