I think this Kodak info will roughly connect lux to an exposure, although I didn't try to work it out.
I don't know about surveyors, but inside of buildings, there are standard guidelines for light levels at various workstations, as well as regulated minimums in hallways, stairwells, etc. So it's a common industrial thing to verify light levels. The meters I've seen used are typically incident type, with a flat diffuser. They would be placed on a desk surface or the like. I think the kodak document implies that such a meter, intended for visual purposes, may not necessarily agree with an exposure meter, especially under different types of light. I'd personally rather have an exposure meter.
I think solution is to find a cheap camera with lighmeter. I will use classifieds. Thank you Vaughn and Bill. I cant pay more than 25 dollars cash, and European sellers are better for shipping prices.
Thank you all , I wish that thread works for others also.
I just tested my link, and it doesn't seem to work. It's on the Kodak website, titled Estimating Luminance and Illuminance With Reflection-Type Exposure Meters and an 18% Neutral Test Card, it's publication AM-105KIC October, 1999.
one of the best replies i`ve seen here for a while.
Originally Posted by Mustafa Umut Sarac
PS. a sheperd DM 170 is a usefull cheaper light meter
there are also plenty of free light meter apps out there if you have a device that can run them.
I've tested them against my Sekonic and they are accurate, in good light.
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Craig, I looked to Sheperd 170 and it is 80 pounds makes 120 dollars.!!! A good 4 meter boat plan is 200 dollars and fiberglass costs 300 dollars. I watched a documentary about people who escaped to South Med coast of Turkey , man said I am living in the photograph why would I want to take it !!!!!! If I find 500 dollars , I would build the boat and set sail to Antalya , no photography anymore. I am taking photographs to carry the scene to my dim room , If I would be able to live there , I would never invest in photography anymore.
EASmith , it would be lovely to have gadgets but I have noone called me from the phone more than 5 times in 20 years
Originally Posted by Mustafa Umut Sarac
Mustafa, my boy, don't be so tragic! You shall NOT leave photography. Put money, heart and soul into it. Decorate the house with the beauty you see around you in Turkey (now don't go givin' me bull that Turkey isn't beautiful: my professor is over there for 6 weeks on leave with his young daughter and will come back with a stunning visual record, albeit a digital one...). Don't get all sweaty and break out in warts because of the cost of a meter. Guess the exposure. You aren't going to be flogged if you get it wrong.
PS: If you do find $500, please PM me. Thanky!
The photographer must determine how he wants the finished print to look before he exposes the negative.
Before releasing the shutter, he must seek 'the flame of recognition,' a sense that the picture would reveal
the greater mystery of things...more clearly than the eyes see." ~Edward Weston, 1922.
Just a thought:
Price, the cost of printing two sheets of text.
No I'm not kidding.
With practice this is a very workable option because, believe it or not, the lighting in any given situation is very stable.
Practice and judgement are the keys.
I have buddies that do this with slide film all the time. That's not my first choice but they seem to make nice pictures.
Pros, like wedding photographers for example, find and use certain settings in certain situations without question or metering.
Some practical examples.
The lighting in your home, place of work, place of worship, street lights, city scapes, window light with given lighting outside, beach scenes, sunsets... are all normal situations where the numbers can be memorized or written down as your norms, as has been done in the ultimate exposure computer tables.
I do like using meters, they are valuable tools, but I also use negative films where my practice and testing has taught me that 2-stops over or 1-stop under exposure won't give me any problem at my prints.
Part of my choice to use negative film is so that I can set the camera once for any given situation, say a walk with the dogs, and shoot in any direction without any more thought about exposure. This makes it easy to use my Holga or my F5. This is the principle disposable cameras use too.
I'm not saying you shouldn't get a meter or strive for accurate settings that fit your needs, just saying there are options that with practice can actually work every bit as well as metering.
Mark Barendt, Beaverton, OR
"We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin
Thank you Garyh, I will.
Novar is very special lens since I love triplet Cooke on my Polaroid 350 and Triotar on Rollei's. Its a 3 element lens and I believe fourth element blur the scene and gives a more alien sharpness. Sharpness is less and acutance is more with Tessar lens. But tessar's 4th glass gives a 3 dimensional - not bokeh - muscle details , Tessar is for people , Triplets are for panaroma. Triplets are good for lines like poles to grass , better for texture like an old cut stone buildinng and rust like textures and the windows , doors , lines on the building , repeating patterns at the roof etc. Triplets I believe is the closest thing for 1950s factory, product photographs of German magazines. Lack of black , lack of white. Pure mid tone.
After following this lens for 2 years , finally I bought it.
And now I want to give what it deserves. Because it is very sensitive and I want to use the lens at its best , not darker , not lighter , as the designer calculates. I am using my 6th Leica and all used from experience on light. There are few good pictures at the gallery