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  1. #11
    andrew.roos's Avatar
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    I suggest you avoid selenium meters, since selenium cells deteriorate over time. If a meter does not require batteries, then it uses a selenium cell.

    Also watch out that many of the older meters use mercury batteries (PX13, PX625 and similar). These are no longer available and alkaline batteries cannot in general be substituted since the mercury cells have a lower voltage (1.35V) and very flat discharge curve that alkaline batteries cannot replicate.

    I would recommend a Gossen or Sekonic meter.

  2. #12
    Poisson Du Jour's Avatar
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    You can never buy too much of a light meter, but it is very likely you can buy one that does not grow with you.
    It is fair to say that if mono work is all you do, a bit of judicious guesswork will get you over the line. But if you are going to progress to more complex scenes (in terms of illumination), you will need to skill up on all of incident, reflective and especially, spot metering, which is the most accurate method of analysing the individual luminance values of a scene.

    I am not a fan at all of the old analogue meters; many beginners struggle to understand what they are saying, yet switched to a digital meter and they are rocketing along smartly. Whatever rows your boat, but consider your needs now and especiallly your needs 5 years into the future.
    .::Gary Rowan Higgins

    A comfort zone is a wonderful place. But nothing ever grows there.
    —Anon.






  3. #13
    David Allen's Avatar
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    I have always used Weston Meters and can recommend them highly. A Weston Master V or a Weston EuroMeter can be found cheap and they are very good. However, the most important thing regardless of which meter you choose is to test the Exposure Index for a particular film that corresponds with your camera(s), your way of metering, the way your meter works, what you like to photograph, how you like your prints to look, what film | developer | processing technique you prefer and most importantly what you can consistently reproduce.

    Best,

    David
    www.dsallen.de

  4. #14

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    Light meter questions

    I use a Gossen Lunasix F. It has a different name in the US. It looks retro and has a needle display. The advantages are that it uses a standard 9V battery and it is a zeroing meter which makes it very quick to use. You align the meter needle with the zero mark and the scale shows all the available shutter/ aperture combinations. It does reflected and incident readings in ambient and flash. Prices vary, so it's worth shopping around.

  5. #15
    Jim Jones's Avatar
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    I use selenium cell Westons, GEs, and Norwoods. It's best to buy them in person so you can compare their accuracy against a known good meter, and check the meter balance. Balance is especially critical in the Weston and Norwood, as they are normally used with the axis of the meter horizontal. A balance error leads to inaccuracies in metering dim light. Ebay sellers may not know or care to check accuracy and balance. The GE with its vertical meter axis is less critical in this respect. Newer meters have greater sensitivity, better readouts, and more durability, but lack the class of a good Weston.

  6. #16
    PDH
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    I have a number of meters, Weston Ranger 9, Weston IV, a couple of Sekonic incident meters, a soligair spot meter and a gossen luna pro. I use the Weston Ranger 9 at least 80% of the time, followed the Soligair spot if I am in zone mood, the others on occassions. I have a battery converter for the Ranger 9, but the Weston IV in most fair to good lighting is also spot on. I perfer a dial to a digitial read out. I agree that buying older meters from the internet can be costley as most of the older meter are not accurate.

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